Determination of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in cosmetic formulations by HPLC

Abstract

A rapid HPLC method was developed for the assay of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in cosmetic formulations. The validated method was applied for quantitative determination of these vitamins in simulated emulsion formulation. Samples were analysed directly on a RP-18 reverse phase column with UV detection at 222 nm. A mixture of methanol and isopropanol (25 : 75 v/v) was used as mobile phase. The retention time of tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate were 3.0 min and 5.9 min, respectively. Recovery was between 95% and 104%. In addition, the excipients did not interfere in the analysis. The method is simple, reproducible, selective and is suitable for routine analyses of commercial products.

Simultaneous Detection of Glabridin, (−)-α-Bisabolol, and Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate in Whitening Cosmetic Creams Using HPLC-PAD

“…The LOD values of 0.03 μg mL −1 (glabridin), 0.4 μg mL −1 ((−)-α-bisabolol), and 4.02 μg mL −1 (ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate) were satisfactory for analysis. The current LODs were considerably lower than those reported for ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in cosmetic products (15.05 μg mL −1 [15]), glabridin in crude drug (0.35 μg mL −1 [25]), and (−)-α-bisabolol in particulate systems (0.5 μg mL −1 [28]). Recoveries at three fortification levels were ranged from 89.8 to 103.9 % with RSD < 5 % ( Table 4).…”

“…Afterwards, isopropyl alcohol was added to acetonitrile and deionized water. In this context, Almeida et al used isocratic elution with methanol and isopropyl alcohol (25:75, v/v) to separate tocopheryl acetate and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in cosmetic formulations using HPLC [25]. Kamal et al used acetonitrile and deionized water in gradient elution method [15].…”

“…The extraction efficiency of the tested compounds from commercially available cream samples was investigated using acetonitrile, isopropyl alcohol, or a combination [25] and n-hexane was used as an extraction solvent for determination of (−)-α-bisabolol in particulate systems by Pedro et al [28]. Kamal et al [15] extracted glabridin from polyherbal preparations using 30 % aqueous ethanol.…”

“…The ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is a fat-soluble substance derived from vitamin C [25]; exhibiting a good percutaneous absorption and a strong antioxidant activity in vitro in a lipid system [26]. Analytical methods for determination of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in cosmetic formulations using HPLC were reported in the literatures [25,27]. Pedro et al validated a HPLC method for the determination of (−)-α-bisabolol in chitosan milispheres and liposomes [28].…”

“…To overcome this defect, ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and other vitamin C's derivatives have been introduced [24]. The ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate is a fat-soluble substance derived from vitamin C [25]; exhibiting a good percutaneous absorption and a strong antioxidant activity in vitro in a lipid system [26]. Analytical methods for determination of ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate in cosmetic formulations using HPLC were reported in the literatures [25,27].…”