Determination of wave energy dissipation factor and numerical simulation of wave height in the surf zone

Zheng, Yh H.; Shen, Y.M.; Wu, X; You, Yg G.

doi:10.1016/j.oceaneng.2003.10.013

Cited by 12 publications

(6 citation statements)

References 23 publications

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“…This energy ðE w Þ, transmitted in the direction of wave propagation, is given in terms of the wave conditions and is proportional to the square of wave height [51]:…”

Section: Effect Of Beach and Wave Characteristics On Sediment Fluxmentioning

confidence: 99%

Numerical simulation of two-phase flow for sediment transport in the inner-surf and swash zones

Bakhtyar

Barry

Yeganeh‐Bakhtiary

et al. 2010

Advances in Water Resources

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a b s t r a c tA two-dimensional two-phase flow framework for fluid-sediment flow simulation in the surf and swash zones was described. Propagation, breaking, uprush and backwash of waves on sloping beaches were studied numerically with an emphasis on fluid hydrodynamics and sediment transport characteristics. The model includes interactive fluid-solid forces and intergranular stresses in the moving sediment layer. In the Euler-Euler approach adopted, two phases were defined using the Navier-Stokes equations with interphase coupling for momentum conservation. The k-e closure model and volume of fluid approach were used to describe the turbulence and tracking of the free surface, respectively. Numerical simulations explored incident wave conditions, specifically spilling and plunging breakers, on both dissipative and intermediate beaches. It was found that the spatial variation of sediment concentration in the swash zone is asymmetric, while the temporal behavior is characterized by maximum sediment concentrations at the start and end of the swash cycle. The numerical results also indicated that the maximum turbulent kinetic energy and sediment flux occurs near the wave-breaking point. These predictions are in general agreement with previous observations, while the model describes the fluid and sediment phase characteristics in much more detail than existing measurements. With direct quantifications of velocity, turbulent kinetic energy, sediment concentration and flux, the model provides a useful approach to improve mechanistic understanding of hydrodynamic and sediment transport in the nearshore zone.

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“…This energy ðE w Þ, transmitted in the direction of wave propagation, is given in terms of the wave conditions and is proportional to the square of wave height [51]:…”

Section: Effect Of Beach and Wave Characteristics On Sediment Fluxmentioning

confidence: 99%

Numerical simulation of two-phase flow for sediment transport in the inner-surf and swash zones

Bakhtyar

Barry

Yeganeh‐Bakhtiary

et al. 2010

Advances in Water Resources

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“…For example, the bore approximation approach in Battjes and Janssen (1978) has been adopted in mild-slope equation models for simulating wave height evolution across the surf zone (e.g. Zheng et al, 2004). Madsen et al (1997) proposed an energy dissipation term into Boussinesq models based on the roller concept.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Turbulence and energy dissipations of surf-zone spilling breakers

Huang

Hsiao

Hwung

et al. 2009

Coastal Engineering

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“…Some researchers (e.g. Ding et al, 1998;Zheng et al, 2000aZheng et al, , 2000bZheng et al, , 2004Lin et al, 2003) have studied various aspects of the radiation stresses for linear water waves and proposed formulas. Subsequently, based on the radiation stress theory, researchers have made a lot of researches about nearshore currents in surf zone.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Numerical simulation of wave-induced currents combined with parabolic mild-slope equation in curvilinear coordinates

2011

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Researches on breaking-induced currents by waves are summarized firstly in this paper. Then, a combined numerical model in orthogonal curvilinear coordinates is presented to simulate wave-induced current in areas with curved boundary or irregular coastline. The proposed wave-induced current model includes a nearshore current module established through orthogonal curvilinear transformation form of shallow water equations and a wave module based on the curvilinear parabolic approximation wave equation. The wave module actually serves as the driving force to provide the current module with required radiation stresses. The Crank-Nicolson finite difference scheme and the alternating directions implicit method are used to solve the wave and current module, respectively. The established surf zone currents model is validated by two numerical experiments about longshore currents and rip currents in basins with rip channel and breakwater. The numerical results are compared with the measured data and published numerical results.

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Determination of wave energy dissipation factor and numerical simulation of wave height in the surf zone

Cited by 12 publications

References 23 publications

Numerical simulation of two-phase flow for sediment transport in the inner-surf and swash zones

Numerical simulation of two-phase flow for sediment transport in the inner-surf and swash zones

Turbulence and energy dissipations of surf-zone spilling breakers

Numerical simulation of wave-induced currents combined with parabolic mild-slope equation in curvilinear coordinates

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