Developing a cosmetic series: Results from the ESSCA network, 2009‐2018

Abstract

Background There is considerable variability across European patch test centres as to which allergens are included in local and national cosmetics series. Objectives To propose a standardized, evidence‐based cosmetic series for Europe based on up‐to‐date analysis of relevant contact allergens. Methods We collated data from the European Surveillance System on Contact Allergies (ESSCA) from 2009 to 2018 to determine which cosmetic allergens produce a high yield of contact allergy. Contact allergens with a prevalence of >0.3% that were considered relevant were included. Rare contact allergens were excluded if deemed no longer relevant or added to a supplemental cosmetic series for further analysis. Results Sensitization prevalences of 39 cosmetic contact allergens were tabulated. Thirty of these allergens yielded >0.3% positive reactions and are therefore included in our proposed European cosmetic series. Six were considered no longer relevant and therefore excluded. Three were included in a supplementary European cosmetic series. An additional nine allergens were included in either the core or supplemental European cosmetic series following literature review. Conclusion We have derived a potential European cosmetic series based upon the above methods. This will require ongoing investigation based upon the changing exposure profiles of cosmetic allergens as well as new and evolving substances.

Facial contact dermatitis caused by cosmetic‐relevant allergens

“…Cosmetics are probably the most common reason that FD patients present for patch testing, as allergic contact dermatitis is suspected 4 . Many ingredients in cosmetic products are contact allergens and have been shown to be common causes of FACD, especially fragrances and preservatives 5‐7 …”

“…4 Many ingredients in cosmetic products are contact allergens and have been shown to be common causes of FACD, especially fragrances and preservatives. [5][6][7] However, investigations of FACD may have a certain complexity due to the many ingredients and potential allergens present in cosmetics, and the cause of the allergy may be overlooked. New allergens, such as natural ingredients, continuously emerge in cosmetic products and could potentially make investigation and causes of FD even more comprehensive as they may also give rise to contact urticaria and/or protein contact dermatitis in FD patients.…”

Allergic contact dermatitis from pantolactone and dexpanthenol in wound healing creams

“…Both products reported here contained dexpanthenol, which is a well‐established contact allergen, 1,2 even in children 3 . Conflicting results have been published whether this allergen is a frequent or rare skin sensitizer, and in order to allow further surveillance it was recently included as a recommended addition to a newly proposed European cosmetic series 4 . Pantolactone is an impurity (~1%) of panthenol raw materials, and because it is likely formed from panthenol in acidic aquatic media (i.e., sweat), it might not be excluded that this here newly reported cosmetic allergen is the actual sensitizer in panthenol‐containing preparations (Figure 2).…”

Re‐emergence of allergic contact dermatitis from chlorphenesin

“…We patch tested with chlorphenesin 0.3% aq., obtained from the cosmetic industry, which corresponds to the concentration in the culprit cosmetic products; it is also the maximum concentration allowed in EU cosmetics 9 . Recently, a “EU Cosmetic Series” has been proposed, 10 however, not mentioning chlorphenesin. Our report confirms the importance of patch testing the patients' personal products, and all their individual ingredients, in order to identify culprit allergens.…”