DOI: 10.5821/dissertation-2117-376079
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Development and interactions of surfzone morphological patterns

Rinse Leendert de Swart

Abstract: A variety of morphodynamic patterns are typically present in the nearshore zone of sandy beaches that develop due to the interactions between waves, currents and the morphology. The most common are one or several nearshore sandbars that vary in configuration from shore-parallel to crescentic, the latter consisting of alongshore-rhythmic (i.e., undulating) bars (also called rip-channel systems). Crescentic bars are often coupled to similar undulations in the shoreline called megacusps. Understanding the evoluti… Show more

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