Development and Optimization of a Topical Formulation with Castanea sativa Shells Extract Based on the Concept “Quality by Design”

Abstract

The proposed study aims to develop and optimize a topical formulation with Castanea sativa shells extract considering the concept of Quality by Design, focusing on a planned development that consider the vulnerabilities of the entire process through risk analysis tools and design of experiments (DoE). A Box–Behnken design with three factors and three levels was used as a statistical tool for the execution of the DoE and the analysis of the response surface methodology responses. The independent variables studied were the quantity of sodium lauryl sulfate (%) (X1), beeswax (%) (X2) and macadamia oil (%) (X3); the dependent variables were pH (Y1), viscosity (Y2) and adhesiveness (Y3). According to the mathematical model, the optimal formulation contains 0.93% of sodium lauryl sulfate, 5.00% of beeswax and 10.00% of macadamia oil. The optimal formulation with the extract was prepared and characterized over the time, regarding organoleptic and technological characteristics, allowing conclusions to be reached regarding its stability. The formulation presented a pleasant odor and was light brown in color, it also demonstrated pseudoplastic-thixotropic behavior and a small reduction in the formulation consistency after 30 days of storage. This study demonstrated the efficiency of the Quality by Design methodology to understand the product variability, supporting that this approach favors a better understanding of the whole process and enables to design a robust development stage, reducing costs and generating high-quality products.

The Construction of a High-Density Genetic Map for the Interspecific Cross of Castanea mollissima × C. henryi and the Identification of QTLs for Leaf Traits

“…Chestnut (Castanea spp., Fagaceae family) is both an economically and ecologically valuable tree in the wood processing industry that is widely distributed throughout China [1,2]. Multiple functions of chestnut have been explored in recent years; abundant secondary metabolisms, such as tannins, polyphenols, and polysaccharides extracted from the plant's inner/outer shells, spring buds, and male flowers are used in food industry, medicine, and pharmaceutical fields [3][4][5]. Further new roles for chestnut are being found in ecosystems and agroforestry systems [1,6,7].…”

Assessment of a Formulation Containing a Castanea sativa Shells Extract on Skin Face Parameters: In Vivo Evaluation

“…The interest in new cosmetic ingredients obtained from agro-food by-products has been rapidly growing in the cosmetic field [1]. Chestnut (Castanea sativa) by-products, particularly shells, are a good example of new cosmetic ingredients that have been intensely explored in the last years [2,3]. Different studies reported the richness of chestnut shells extracts in phenolic compounds, such as pyrogallol, protocatechuic acid, ellagic acid, caffeic acid, gallic acid, epigallocatechin, and catechin [4][5][6][7].…”

“…In addition, caffeic acid was able to permeate in all skin sections of the pig ear, achieving a flux value of 0.48 µg/cm 2 /h [14]. Considering the composition of the chestnut shell extract obtained by UAE and the possible associated skin benefits, Pinto et al and Oliveira et al developed a semisolid formulation (O/W cream) [2,3] and an hydrogel [15] containing this active ingredient, reporting good stability properties. However, in vivo information is still needed, particularly clinical studies that confirm the efficacy of the final formulations on volunteers.…”