Development, Characterization, and Clinical Investigation of a New Topical Emulsion System Containing a Castanea sativa Spiny Burs Active Extract

Abstract

The study focused on the development and characterization of an O/W emulsion for skincare containing Castanea sativa spiny burs extract (CSE) as functional agent. The emulsion was stable and had suitable physicochemical and technological properties for dermal application and CSE showed no cytotoxicity in spontaneously immortalized keratinocytes (HaCaT) at active concentrations. A single-blind, placebo-controlled, monocentric study was designed to evaluate the skin tolerability and the skin performance of the CSE-loaded emulsion on healthy human volunteers. An improvement was observed in skin biomechanical properties such as hydration, skin elasticity and a reduction in the periorbital wrinkles in 30 days without altering the skin barrier function, sebum, pH, and erythema values. A significant skin moisturizing effect was detected while the skin barrier function was preserved. The selected natural ingredient combined with the designed formulation and the optimized preparation method has led to a final product that satisfies the physico-chemical and technological requirements underlying the safety of use and the formulative stability over time. With no negative skin reactions and highly significant effects on skin elasticity, wrinkles, and moisturization, the CSE-based emulsion achieved very satisfying outcomes representing a promising functional formulation for skin care.

Use of a novel indentometer to evaluate skin stiffness in healthy and diseased human skin

“…Esposito et al 40 . used the devices Corneometer CM 825, Indentometer IDM 800, and Cutometer dual MPA 580 (Courage+Khazaka, Cologne, Germany) to objectify the effects on the facial skin of a cosmetic emulsion containing a plant extract.…”

“…The medical application of the Indentometer is related to skin measurements in healthy individuals, 39 before and after the application of cosmetic emulsion, 40 in patients with lymphedema of the lower extremities, 41 psoriases, and localized scleroderma 42 …”

The medieval skincare routine according to the formulations of Madgistra Trotula and the Medical School of Salerno and its reflection on cosmetology of the third millennium

“…For this reason, women and men have always exploited medicinal plants, minerals, animal derivatives, and miscellaneous to treat and improve face and body look. Officinal herbs, so called because they are used in laboratories for the preparation of natural remedies, plants and plant wastes, and their formulations have always been employed for the preparation of oils, ointments, perfumes, herbal teas, infusions, tinctures, to preserve health, wellness, and beauty and today as bioactive ingredients in health products' industry 1–4 . Bioactive herbs have been selected over the centuries on the basis of their symbolic qualities or in relation to the medical theories developed in the context of different cultures and eras, such as the Hippocratic humoral theory (5th century BC), which was prevalent until the 17th century and beyond.…”

“…Officinal herbs, so called because they are used in laboratories for the preparation of natural remedies, plants and plant wastes, and their formulations have always been employed for the preparation of oils, ointments, perfumes, herbal teas, infusions, tinctures, to preserve health, wellness, and beauty and today as bioactive ingredients in health products' industry. 1 , 2 , 3 , 4 Bioactive herbs have been selected over the centuries on the basis of their symbolic qualities or in relation to the medical theories developed in the context of different cultures and eras, such as the Hippocratic humoral theory (5th century BC), which was prevalent until the 17th century and beyond. Body care and attention to aesthetics are apparently much less widespread in the Middle Ages with respect to Ancient Egypt and the classical antiquity, when the cult of beauty and well‐being and the use of natural cosmetics were deeply rooted, with the exception represented by the Salerno Medical School.…”