Development of a High-Resolution Nearshore Wave Forecasting/Hindcasting System for the Italian Coasts

Abstract

This paper describes a research aimed at developing a high-resolution nearshore wave forecasting/hindcasting system for the Italian coasts. Data recorded by buoys located in shallow water are compared with hindcasted data. The model uses the results of the well-tested large scale meteorological forecasting system named 'Idro-meteo-mare' (SIMM) managed by ISPRA, the Italian Agency for the Environmental Protection and Research, as wind input for WAM and SWAN models. Two different approaches are used for the Adriatic and the Tyrrhenian/Ligurian Sea. In the first eastern basin two/three SWAN nested grids have been used, while in the second western basins two WAM nested grids and a finer SWAN grid have been used. Both methodologies have shown a good accuracy and and a reasonable level of efficiency.

A QGIS Plugin for Offshore Wave Hindcasting Based on Geographic Transposition of Wave Gauge Data

“…The literature on this topic is very extensive and its discussion is beyond the aim of the present work. It is just noteworthy to observe that numerical models generally require a computational effort that can be justified when significant variations in meteorological conditions takes place, and frequent and accurate input data are available (Catini et al, 2010;Liberti et al, 2013;Carillo et al, 2015;ENEA, 2016; ISPRA, 2016).…”