2023
DOI: 10.3390/jmse11081479
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Differing Aspects of Free and Bound Waves in Obtaining Orbital Velocities from Surface Wave Records

Abstract: In coastal zones, the accurate calculation of orbital particle velocities from surface wave measurements is quite important for estimating sediment transport, which is essentially controlled by the near-bottom velocity field. The main difficulty in obtaining orbital velocities from surface wave profiles is associated with the simultaneous existence of free and bound waves of the second harmonic with the same frequencies but different wave numbers. In a laboratory experiment, a discrepancy between the orbital v… Show more

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