2019
DOI: 10.1177/0950017019847942
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Disconnecting Labour? The Labour Process in the UK Fast Fashion Value Chain

Abstract: This article focuses on the interlinkages between the labour process and global value chains. It draws on the renewed growth in UK apparel manufacturing, specifically within the fast fashion value chain, and asks how value chain requirements are translated into the labour process as well as how the latter enables quick response manufacturing. The case study shows how buyer-lead firms engender accelerated capital circuits of fast fashion which rely on an increased segmentation of manufacturers and workers, the … Show more

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Cited by 22 publications
(22 citation statements)
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“…On the basis of other similar cases 5 and the way in which a whole range of international commitments to suppliers and garment workers melted into air at the outset of the Covid-19 pandemic (see for example, Anner, 2020), there is justification to believe the Bravo case is in no way isolated or exceptional. Rather, the case is an example of the fundamental disconnections and contradictions in the political economy of the value chain (Thompson, 2003; that allow, nay promote, the downgrading of workers' conditions and their capacity to organise (see also for example Anner, 2015a;Bartley, 2018a;Hammer and Plugor, 2019;Selwyn, 2017;Smith et al, 2018;Mezzadri, 2017).…”
Section: Promises Made In Abstract Cannot Holdmentioning
confidence: 99%
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“…On the basis of other similar cases 5 and the way in which a whole range of international commitments to suppliers and garment workers melted into air at the outset of the Covid-19 pandemic (see for example, Anner, 2020), there is justification to believe the Bravo case is in no way isolated or exceptional. Rather, the case is an example of the fundamental disconnections and contradictions in the political economy of the value chain (Thompson, 2003; that allow, nay promote, the downgrading of workers' conditions and their capacity to organise (see also for example Anner, 2015a;Bartley, 2018a;Hammer and Plugor, 2019;Selwyn, 2017;Smith et al, 2018;Mezzadri, 2017).…”
Section: Promises Made In Abstract Cannot Holdmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Solidarity, arguably the foundation for the assertion of rights-based claims by workers, is hard won in an industry that traditionally employs socio-economically disadvantaged groups across a range of production relations, from wage employment in large factories to informal piece-rate and homework (Hale and Wills, 2005). Irrespective of place, workplace labour violations are endemic to the sector (for example, Anner, 2015a;Jenkins, 2020;Hammer and Plugor, 2019;Mezzadri, 2017;Tartanoglu, 2018). 'Weak' states and 'areas of limited statehood' (Bartley, 2018a: 39) have been implicated in the creation of a transnational 'governance gap' that allows such conditions to persist.…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Examples of transgressions are legion and appear in tier one firms with relatively close connections to the lead firm just as much as in second and third tier workplaces further down the supply chain (e.g. Anner 2019; Hammer and Plugor 2019; Jenkins 2020a,b; Jenkins and Blyton 2017; Kuruvilla et al . 2020; Mezzadri 2014).…”
Section: Implementation Of Standards and Rules And The Corporation's mentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Similarly, in the United Kingdom, long‐standing abuses in the garment sector — the subject of decades of research — were only fully brought to public attention when a spike in Covid‐19 cases in Leicester were in part attributed to the garment workshops that had continued to operate through lockdown. The short‐lived media attention embarrassed one of the main sourcing brands, Boo‐hoo, but once more ‘plausible deniability’ had long hidden the abuse and exploitation that has been the subject of decades of painstaking research in the sector (Hammer 2020; Hammer and Plugor 2019).…”
Section: Concluding Thoughts and A Future Research Agendamentioning
confidence: 99%
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