2019
DOI: 10.1007/978-3-030-29951-4_3
|View full text |Cite
|
Sign up to set email alerts
|

Dispersive and Nondispersive Nonlinear Long Wave Transformations: Numerical and Experimental Results

Abstract: The description of gravity waves propagating on the water surface is considered from a historical point of view, with specific emphasis on the development of a theoretical framework and equations of motion for long waves in shallow water. This provides the foundation for a subsequent discussion about tsunami wave propagation and run-up on a sloping beach, and in particular the role of wave dispersion for this problem. Wave tank experiments show that wave dispersion can play a significant role for the propagati… Show more

Help me understand this report
View preprint versions

Search citation statements

Order By: Relevance

Paper Sections

Select...
2
1
1

Citation Types

1
3
0

Year Published

2021
2021
2024
2024

Publication Types

Select...
2
1

Relationship

0
3

Authors

Journals

citations
Cited by 3 publications
(4 citation statements)
references
References 23 publications
1
3
0
Order By: Relevance
“…( 24) and ( 27) are similar to the expression for the deviation of the water surface from the undisturbed state, obtained within Airy wave theory for a ocean tsunami (see, e.g., Ref. [38]).…”
Section: Free Edgessupporting
confidence: 81%
“…( 24) and ( 27) are similar to the expression for the deviation of the water surface from the undisturbed state, obtained within Airy wave theory for a ocean tsunami (see, e.g., Ref. [38]).…”
Section: Free Edgessupporting
confidence: 81%
“…Furthermore, The type of waves discussed in this study are regular waves, and nothing is yet known about how different incident wave shapes affect wave run-up, reflections, and breaking patterns. Torsvik et al [25] discuss the propagation and run-up of tsunami waves on an inclined beach with wave dispersion. Wave flume experiments show that wave dispersion plays an important role in wave signal propagation and wave translation.…”
Section: Influence Of the Average Breaking Parameter ξ On The Reflect...mentioning
confidence: 99%
“…A stochastic model describing the bottom irregularity is proposed, which has practical significance. Torsvik et al [25] used numerical models based on the finite volume method applied to the modified NLSW and modified Peregrine equations (Durán et al, [26]; Dutykh et al, [27]) and emphasized the theoretical framework and the development of equations of motion for shallow water long waves. This provided an important basis for the subsequent discussion of tsunami wave propagation and run-up on sloping beaches.…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…A stochastic model describing the bottom irregularity is proposed, which has practical significance. Torsvik et al [25] used numerical models based on the finite volume method applied to the modified nonlinear shallow water (NLSW) and modified Peregrine equations (Durán et al, [26]; Dutykh et al, [27]) and emphasized the theoretical framework and the development of equations of motion for shallow water long waves. This provided an important basis for the subsequent discussion of tsunami wave propagation and run-up on sloping beaches.…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 99%