Distribution of crest heights in sea states with abnormal waves

Petrova, Petya G.; Cherneva, Z.; Soares, C. Guedes

doi:10.1016/j.apor.2007.01.001

Cited by 39 publications

(22 citation statements)

References 18 publications

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“…Unfortunately, many of these comparisons are limited by the steepness of the sea states involved, by uncertainty involving the measurement technique and by the finite length of the data records [12]. However, recent contributions [13,14] have analysed very extensive databases.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

A laboratory study of wave crest statistics and the role of directional spreading

Latheef

Swan

2013

Proc. R. Soc. A.

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This paper concerns the crest height statistics arising in sea states that are broad banded in both frequency and direction. A new set of laboratory observations are presented and the results compared with the commonly applied statistical distributions. Taken as a whole, the data confirm that the crest-height distributions are critically dependent upon the directionality of the sea state. Although nonlinear effects arising at third order and above are most pronounced in uni-directional seas, the present data show that they are also important in directionally spread seas, provided the seas are sufficiently steep and not too short crested. The data also highlight the limiting effects of wave breaking. With individual breaking events dependent upon the local wave steepness, the directionality of the sea state again plays a significant role. Indeed, the present observations confirm that the two competing processes of nonlinear amplification and wave breaking can have a profound influence on the crest-height distributions leading to significant departures from established theory. In such cases, the key parameters are the sea state steepness and directional spread; the latter acting to counter the former in terms of nonlinear changes in the crestheight distributions.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

A laboratory study of wave crest statistics and the role of directional spreading

Latheef

Swan

2013

Proc. R. Soc. A.

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“…As a result, much attention has been paid to freak wave occurrence in the deep part of the ocean with regards to ship accidents and damage to ocean platforms. The North and Norwegian Sea, from which many accidents have been reported, has become a focus of intense study of freak waves (Magnusson et al, 1999;Bitner-Gregersen and Magnusson, 2004;Guedes Soares et al, 2004;Stansell, 2004;Walker et al, 2004;Petrova et al, 2006;Krogstad et al, 2008;Olagnon, 2008), but extreme wave data have also been analysed for the Mediterranean (Prevosto et al, 2000), Japan Sea (Mori and Yasuda, 2002), Gulf of Mexico (Al-Humoud et al, 2002) and Kuwaiti territorial waters (Neelamani et al, 2007). Different theoretical models of freak wave generation have been developed (Olagnon and Athanassoulis, 2001;MaxWave, 2003;Kharif and Pelinovsky, 2003;Kharif et al, 2009).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Freak waves of different types in the coastal zone of the Baltic Sea

Didenkulova

Anderson

2010

Nat. Hazards Earth Syst. Sci.

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Abstract. We present a statistical analysis of freak waves 1 measured during the 203 h of observation on sea surface elevation at a location in the coastal zone of the Baltic Sea (2.7 m depth) during June-July 2008. The dataset contains 97 freak waves occurring in both calm and stormy weather conditions. All of the freak waves are solitary waves, 63% of them having positive shape, 17.5% negative shape and 19.5% sign-variable shape. It is suggested that the freak waves can be divided into two groups. Those of the first group, which includes 92% of the freak waves, have an amplification factor (ratio of freak wave height to significant wave height) which does not vary from significant wave height and has values largely within the range of 2.0 to 2.4; while for the second group, which contain the most extreme freak waves, amplification factors depend strongly on significant wave height and can reach 3.1. Analysis based on the Generalised Pareto distribution is used to describe the waves of the first group and lends weight to the identification of the two groups. It is suggested that the probable mechanism of the generation of freak waves in the second group is dispersive focussing. The time-frequency spectra of the freak waves are studied and dispersive tracks, which can be interpreted as dispersive focussing, are demonstrated.

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“…The parameter, abnormal index H max /H s , is currently used to distinguish the extreme event from the largest wave in a random wave field (Petrova et al, 2006;Dean, 1990). This ratio becomes known as the amplification or abnormality index, H max /H s .…”

Section: Resultsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Influence of wave breaking on wave statistics for finite-depth random wave trains

Zhao

Sun

2010

J. Marine. Sci. Appl.

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The influence of wave breaking on wave statistics for finite-depth random wave trains is investigated experimentally. This paper is to investigate the influence of wave breaking and water depth on the wave statistics for random waves on water of finite depth. Greater attention is paid to changes in wave statistics due to wave breaking in random wave trains. The results show skewness of surface elevations is independent of wave breaking and kurtosis is suppressed by wave breaking. Finally, the exceedance probabilities for wave heights are also investigated.

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Distribution of crest heights in sea states with abnormal waves

Cited by 39 publications

References 18 publications

A laboratory study of wave crest statistics and the role of directional spreading

A laboratory study of wave crest statistics and the role of directional spreading

Freak waves of different types in the coastal zone of the Baltic Sea

Influence of wave breaking on wave statistics for finite-depth random wave trains

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