Dyes of late Bronze Age textile clothes and accessories from the Yanghai archaeological site, Turfan, China: Determination of the fibers, color analysis and dating

Kramell, Annemarie E.; Li, Xiao; Csuk, René; Wagner, Mayke; Goslar, Tomasz; Tarasov, Pavel E.; Kreusel, Nicole; Kluge, Ralph; Wunderlich, Christian‐Heinrich

doi:10.1016/j.quaint.2014.05.012

Cited by 62 publications

(24 citation statements)

References 22 publications

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“…1300 V.E. In addition, the reliability of radiocarbon dating of ancient fabric is supported by current publications on the topic (12)(13)(14)(15)(16)(17). The statistical issue (ref.…”

Section: Sirmentioning

confidence: 90%

Authors' Response

Borrini

Garlaschelli

2019

Journal of Forensic Sciences

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“…1300 V.E. In addition, the reliability of radiocarbon dating of ancient fabric is supported by current publications on the topic (12)(13)(14)(15)(16)(17). The statistical issue (ref.…”

Section: Sirmentioning

confidence: 90%

Authors' Response

Borrini

Garlaschelli

2019

Journal of Forensic Sciences

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“…Chromatographic separation techniques are micro-destructive techniques which allow the identification of different organic dye and degradation molecules, based on the comparison of their characteristic eluting time and UV-VIS absorbance (and/or mass spectrum if such equipment is available) with those from known dye molecules. Although micro-destructive, these analytical techniques are to be preferred on historical samples as they are most efficient for detecting and identifying the individual components in dye mixtures, even in case of very similar molecules [24][25][26][27][28][29][30][31]. Solvents such as dimethyl formamide or dimethyl sulfoxide are preferred for the extraction of the marker molecules of indigoid dye sources, especially when molluscs are to be expected [32][33][34][35].…”

Section: Goalmentioning

confidence: 99%

Material analysis versus historical dye recipes: ingredients found in black dyed wool from five Belgian archives (1650-1850)

et al. 2019

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The relationship between bibliographic and archival research, on the one hand, and object-based study, on the other, forms a very important basis for research into historical production techniques. Several written sources provide insight into the recipes for dyeing black in the past. Yet, this does not guarantee that these written recipes are representative of an entire society or were used in the dyers practice. The way to assess how closely practical dyeing and written sources are aligned entail the chemical analysis of historical textiles. This article focuses on the identification of the ingredients used to dye wool black in the case of well-preserved and dated (1650-1850) historical textiles from five Belgian archives and some remaining historical artefacts. The results are compared with the technical knowledge of dyeing and the ingredients mentioned in written sources from the same period. The aim is to refine the knowledge of the different black dye ingredients used in practice in Northwest Europe during the period. Resumo A relação entre a investigação bibliográfica e arquivística e a investigação baseada em objectos históricos constitui um ponto de partida fundamental para o estudo de antigas técnicas de produção. Várias fontes documentais dão uma imagem de como se tingia de preto no passado. Contudo, nada garante que estas receitas sejam representativas de uma sociedade no seu todo ou que fossem praticadas pelos próprios tintureiros. A análise química de têxteis históricos constitui um método eficaz para verificar a proximidade entre práticas de tingimento e fontes documentais. Este artigo foca-se na identificação dos ingredientes usados no tingimento de lã com cor preta num conjunto de têxteis históricos datados (1650-1850) e em excelente estado de conservação de cinco arquivos belgas e noutros objectos históricos. Os resultados são comparados com o saber tecnológico associado aos métodos de tingimento e aos ingredientes descritos segundo as fontes documentais da época. O objectivo é o de afinar o conhecimento sobre os ingredientes usados no tingimento de preto no noroeste da Europa durante o período em questão.

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“…The most commonly used literature extraction procedure uses a 37% hydrochloric acid: methanol: water (2:1:1, v/v/v ) mixture . In theory, this method works by H + ions in the strong acid displacing the Al 3+ ions in the dye‐mordant‐fibre complex therefore releasing the dye into the solution .…”

Section: Extraction Of Colorants From Fibres Mordant‐dyed With Maddermentioning

confidence: 99%

Natural dyes in madder (Rubiaspp.) and their extraction and analysis in historical textiles

Blackburn

2017

Coloration Technology

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Textiles coloration using extracts from the roots of various madder species (Rubia spp.) has been performed for centuries. To date, 68 anthraquinone colorants have been detected in Rubia spp. used to dye textiles. Many of these dyes are sensitive to hydrolysis and degradation from enzymes, extraction chemicals and processing temperatures, and are often overlooked as colorants in historical textiles. Conclusions in literature of the past 30 years concerning colorants present in planta and, particularly, in madder‐dyed artefacts are being challenged as new analysis methods are developed. The recent advent of ‘soft’ extraction techniques has demonstrated that anthraquinone glycosides and other sensitive molecules, such as carboxylated compounds, need to be preserved; this valuable chemical information embedded in the dye structure may be lost if extraction and analysis is too harsh. Some compounds thought to be present in madder and madder‐dyed artefacts are in fact degradation products resultant from the extraction process, and degradation pathways have been developed to better understand the reactivity and stability of these compounds. Detailed analysis of dyes in textile artefacts can reveal important cultural and heritage information concerning historical textiles relative to the specific dye species, the area of the world where this may have grown, how and where it was dyed, and, perhaps, where it was traded. Understanding the precise molecular structure of these dyes and their chemical reactivity is important to provide knowledge of their interactions with physical substrates, such as textile fibres, which could be used to develop superior techniques for analysis of artefacts.

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Dyes of late Bronze Age textile clothes and accessories from the Yanghai archaeological site, Turfan, China: Determination of the fibers, color analysis and dating

Cited by 62 publications

References 22 publications

Authors' Response

Authors' Response

Material analysis versus historical dye recipes: ingredients found in black dyed wool from five Belgian archives (1650-1850)

Natural dyes in madder (Rubiaspp.) and their extraction and analysis in historical textiles

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