Early synthetic textile dyes of the late 19th century from the “Primo Levi” Chemistry Museum (Rome): A multi-technique analytical investigation

Longoni, Margherita; Gavazzi, Martina; Monti, Donato; Bruni, Silvia

doi:10.1016/j.culher.2022.11.013

Cited by 4 publications

(5 citation statements)

References 33 publications

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“…The samples analysed constituted 11 dyed fibres selected from a single sample card and four powder samples obtained from glass jars (Figure 1). Samples were acquired from the Sapienza University Museum of Chemistry's synthetic dye collection, which represents a precious source for the study of colorants, as highlighted in a recent study 58 . The spectroscopic analysis was focused on 15 samples, which were chosen based on their names, which appeared to suggest links with the azo class.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Samples were acquired from the Sapienza University Museum of Chemistry's synthetic dye collection, which represents a precious source for the study of colorants, as highlighted in a recent study. 58 The spectroscopic analysis was focused on 15 samples, which were chosen based on their names, which appeared to suggest links with the azo class. The selection of these samples was based on the names reported on the jar and on the catalogue cards, with reference to the investigated literature.…”

Section: Dye Samplesmentioning

confidence: 99%

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The 20th century and its new colours: Investigating the molecular structures of historical synthetic dyes using Raman spectroscopy

Ciccola,

McClure,

Serafini

et al. 2023

J Raman Spectroscopy

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Characterising synthetic dyes on heritage textiles represents a relatively recent research frontier, which aims to obtain new information about the evolution of textile manufacturing and industrial chemistry. Whilst spectral enhancement or amplification methods are often considered a requirement for the Raman analysis of textile dyes, this work highlights the potential of standard Raman spectroscopy for the non‐invasive analysis of synthetically dyed fibres. In this research, Raman spectroscopy was used for the chemical characterisation of early 20th century synthetic dyes, in both powder form and on dyed fibres. The dyes were produced by the Italian company Azienda Coloranti Nazionali e Affini (ACNA) and housed in the Sapienza University Museum of Chemistry. The investigation first employed literature research into the ACNA's commercial nomenclature. This information was used to hypothesise likely molecular structures of the dyes, pointing towards the azo dye class. The application of Raman spectroscopy confirmed these hypotheses and the high‐quality spectra collected provided structural information about the dye molecules. Spectral features of azo‐groups, aromatic moieties, and substituents were observable in spectra. Comparison with a Raman spectrum of wool allowed confident dye signal attribution, and some spectra displayed features linked to changes in the fibre during the dyeing process. Combining literature research and Raman vibrational information proved a powerful non‐invasive approach for the characterisation of synthetic dyes, allowing molecular identification of some colorants and structural information for most. Standard Raman spectroscopy may provide a widely applicable, non‐invasive method for acquiring information about synthetically dyed historical and artistic textiles in future research.

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Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Dye Samplesmentioning

confidence: 99%

The 20th century and its new colours: Investigating the molecular structures of historical synthetic dyes using Raman spectroscopy

Ciccola,

McClure,

Serafini

et al. 2023

J Raman Spectroscopy

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“…It can be applied deposing the silver nanoparticles directly on the artwork, or on a micro-sample (as-is or on an extract), resulting in a micro-invasive/micro-destructive technique. Examples of successful use of SERS encompass the identification of SOPs in commercial artists' colour charts [22], paintings [92], inks [66,104,118], dyes on textiles [94,122] and colourants in Japanese woodblock prints from the Meiji period [75,123,124]. Additionally, an interesting study has been recently carried out on the photostability of acrylic and alkyd paints, showing that Raman is effective in revealing the degradation phenomena occurring in the binder but not those relative to the pigment [125].…”

Section: Spectroscopic Techniquesmentioning

confidence: 99%

An Introduction and Recent Advances in the Analytical Study of Early Synthetic Dyes and Organic Pigments in Cultural Heritage

Tamburini,

Sabatini,

Berbers

et al. 2024

Heritage

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This article reviews the research recently undertaken to characterise and identify early synthetic dyes (ESDs) and synthetic organic pigments (SOPs) as well as study their degradation pathways with a focus on cultural heritage applications. Since the invention of the first fully synthetic dye in 1856, these materials have been used in a variety of historic objects and artworks, such as textiles, furniture, prints, paintings, drawings, etc. The synthesis of new dyes and their implementation into pigment formulations were rapid phenomena, so that by the beginning of the 20th century, thousands of new molecules were patented and commercialised. This review will focus on these early formulations synthesised up to approximately 1914 and the outbreak of World War I. ESDs and SOPs represent a challenge from an analytical point of view. Molecular databases are fundamental for the unequivocal identification of these compounds, but reference materials are not always readily available. A combination of analytical techniques is often needed for characterisation, especially in the case of SOPs, which have both organic and inorganic components. Furthermore, the degradation of these molecules can jeopardise their detection in historic objects that have been exposed to light, humidity and temperature fluctuations. Nevertheless, ESDs and SOPs are important research tools. As the dates of their first synthesis are often known with precision, based on patent information, their detection can be used to refine the production date of objects. Additionally, their trade from Europe to the world and their adoption in artistic practices around the globe is an active area of research.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…In our particular aim to identify the dyes in the unlabeled vials, we decided to combine two proven techniques: electrospray ionization mass spectrometry (ESI-MS) and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) [33][34][35][36]. ESI-MS as well as FTIR spectroscopy have been successfully used with other techniques by Longoni et al [33] for the analysis of dyes very similar to those in the museum collection. Moreover, as this collection of synthetic dyes was given to the museum at the time of the removal of the laboratory which sheltered it, at the beginning of the years 2000, this study aims to carry out the necessary research to register its heritage status [8], while contributing the maximum information.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Giving a New Status to a Dyes Collection: A Contribution to the Chromotope Project

Zubiri¹,

Carré

2023

Heritage

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Chromotope, the 19th Century Chromatic Turn, is a multidisciplinary ERC research programme that focuses on the “chromatic turn” of the 1860s in France and England, following the invention of the first synthetic dyes. This project, based on a partnership between Sorbonne University (PI: Charlotte Ribeyrol), Oxford University, and the Conservatoire national des arts et métiers (Cnam), investigates how this turn led to new ways of thinking about colour in art, literature, history, and science throughout the second half of the 19th century. One of the key aims of this research is to reappraise the role played by the Cnam in the dissemination of knowledge about synthetic dyes, from the creation in 1852 of the first chair in dyeing and printing until the Interwar period, when a collection of dyes including more than 2500 references, obtained from major European firms, was formed. A full inventory based on the description of each container has just been made together with a bibliographical research. Nevertheless, 2% of the containers are unlabeled and the reattribution of their composition is the main goal of our study. In order to set an appropriate analysis protocol to identify these orphan containers, a preliminary work was conducted on a random selection of identified dyes. For this purpose, electrospray ionization mass spectrometry and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy were used on 13 samples from different dye classes. The relevance of this protocol will be discussed for the identification of unknown compounds.

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Early synthetic textile dyes of the late 19th century from the “Primo Levi” Chemistry Museum (Rome): A multi-technique analytical investigation

Cited by 4 publications

References 33 publications

The 20th century and its new colours: Investigating the molecular structures of historical synthetic dyes using Raman spectroscopy

The 20th century and its new colours: Investigating the molecular structures of historical synthetic dyes using Raman spectroscopy

An Introduction and Recent Advances in the Analytical Study of Early Synthetic Dyes and Organic Pigments in Cultural Heritage

Giving a New Status to a Dyes Collection: A Contribution to the Chromotope Project

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