Effect of an Emollient Emulsion Containing 15.0% of Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride on the Urocanic Acid of the Stratum Corneum

Abstract

Natural moisturizing factor (NMF) includes several compounds in the stratum corneum (SC), among them, urocanic acid (UCA). Ultraviolet (UV) exposure turns the trans-UCA of the SC into its cis isomer. We investigated the impact of a topical emollient emulsion treatment on the UCA isomers of the SC exposed to artificial UV stress. Aliquots of emollient emulsion were applied in healthy subjects for 2 h on delimited areas of the volar forearm, then, the SC was removed by tape stripping. Tapes were irradiated in a solar simulator chamber and a high performance liquid chromatograph was used to quantify UCA isomers from stripped SC extract. The amount of both UCA isomers were almost twice higher in the SC treated with the emollient emulsion. We also observed that the UV irradiation elevated the amount of the cis/trans UCA ratio on the SC (non-treated and treated), suggesting that the emollient sample was not able to avoid the UCA isomerization. The in vivo tests corroborated with the UCA data obtained ex vivo, since we found an increase in the superficial skin hydration with respective reduction of the TEWL, probably occurring by the occlusion performed by the emollient emulsion containing 15.0% w/w of caprylic/capric triglyceride.

Revitalizing the skin: Exploring the role of barrier repair moisturizers

“…Aloe vera • Contains magnesium lactate, salicylic acid, and gel polysaccharides 10 • Has anti-inflammatory, antipruritic, analgesic, and wound-healing properties 10 • Improves skin hydration through its humectant mechanism 30 Bisabolol • Extracted from the chamomile (Matricaria recutita) plant 10 • Can ameliorate itching 10 • Has anti-inflammatory effects 10 • Promotes formation of granulation tissues to accelerate wound healing 10 Caprylic/capric triglyceride • An emollient that is naturally found in coconut oil 31 • Increases hydration, reduces TEWL, and forms a lipid film over the skin 31 Ceramide • Restores lipid matrix, water permeability, and barrier function in the SC 32 • Improves TEWL and hydrates the skin (ceramide NP [previously ceramide 3]) 33 Cocos nucifera • Reduces TEWL, improves skin hydration, and increases synthesis of skin lipids 34 • Contains monolaurin, which has antimicrobial effects 34…”

Microemulsions and Nanoemulsions for Topical Delivery of Tripeptide-3: From Design of Experiment to Anti-Sebum Efficacy on Facial Skin

“…The development of the optimal delivery system was initiated from the investigation of relevant factors affecting the ME or NE formation using ternary phase diagrams, followed by using a design of experiment (DoE) program to find an optimized ME or NE formula for a routine anti-oil and shine facial essence. Caprylic/capric triglyceride (CCT), an effective emollient that is moisturizing, softening, and non-greasy, while creating a smooth and velvety texture ingredient, was selected as an oil phase for the developed MEs or NEs due to its various benefits for the skin [ 21 ]. In addition, surfactant, co-surfactant, and co-solvent compositions, and production protocols were demonstrated to obtain the isotropic MEs or NEs at a significantly lower content of surfactants in the system.…”