Effect of high‐speed sewing on the tensile properties of sewing threads at different stages of sewing

Abstract

PurposeIn this paper, the contribution of dynamic loading, needle and fabric, and the bobbin thread interaction on the changes in the tensile properties of the needle thread are to be investigated.Design/methodology/approachTensile properties of the needle thread have been studied at four sewing stages, namely before being subjected to any loading, after dynamic loading, before bobbin thread interaction and after sewing.FindingsIt is observed that bobbin thread interaction plays a dominant role in the reduction of tensile properties except breaking elongation in cotton threads. Dynamic loading is mainly responsible for reduction in the breaking elongation of cotton threads. During sewing, there is an increase in initial modulus due to the dynamic loading, which is more in the case of cotton threads than polyester threads. However, the impact of dynamic loading on tenacity, breaking elongation and breaking energy is greater for coarser cotton thread. The contribution of bobbin thread interaction is more for fine threads as compared to coarse threads.Practical implicationsSince seam strength is dependent on the thread strength, a reduction in thread strength during sewing will lead to lower seam strength than expected. Therefore, in order to minimize the thread strength reduction, it is important to understand the contribution of different machine elements or processes during sewing. During high‐speed sewing, the dynamic and thermal loading are found to be the major causes of strength reduction of needle thread, which can go up to 30‐40 per cent. However, the extent of strength loss at different sewing stages is unknown.Originality/valueThe study will help in engineering sewing threads, designing of sewing machines and selection of process parameters for controlling loss of useful properties of sewing threads.

Geometrical model to calculate the consumption of sewing thread for 301 lockstitch

“…It was reported that seam strength depends on the sewing thread properties (Jonaitiene & Stanys, 2005). Most of the researchers considered that the tensile strength of the sewing threads reduces after stitching (Ajiki & Postle, 2003;Geršak & Knez, 1993;Midha, Kothari, Chatopadhyay, & Mukhopadhyay, 2009;. Several reasons are reported in the literature.…”

A Study of the Consumption of Sewing Threads for Women's Underwear: Bras and Panties

“…Indeed, the breaking strength, elongation of the fabric, and sewing thread had an excellent correlation with seam effi ciency. Most of the researchers considered that the tensile strength of the sewing threads reduces after stitching and studied thread properties such as size, coeffi cient of yarnmetal friction, twist direction, number of piles, type of fi ber, and fi ber denier on strength reduction [11,21,[22][23][24]. These properties, along with the notable effect of fabric tightness can certainly explain the origin of highly-consumed thread and wastage values as well as the decrease of sewn garment quality.…”

Effect of Using Lower Linear Density Bobbin Thread on Seam Strength

“…A good sewing thread should give satisfactory sewing and seam performance. Th e sewing performance of threads is generally assessed by studying the dynamic tension and the strength reduction of the thread [3,4]. During the sewing, the needle thread is subjected to friction and tensile, bending, compressive, shear and surface stresses while passing through the machine elements and fabric assembly, leading to the loss in strength [5,6].…”