Effect of zein additive on perfume evaporation

Abstract

OBJECTIVE: Zein is known to have filmogen properties. We wanted to show if a zein film containing eugenol (eugenol as model) would retain the fragrances, slow their evaporation and therefore produce a long-lasting perception of perfume. METHODS: We added corn zein to eugenol in a hydro-alcoholic solution to form a film in vitro and at the surface of the human skin. We have studied the trapping and release of eugenol from zein film by GC/MS. Also we labelled eugenol with deuterium to image specifically its distribution in the zein film using Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry technique (NanoSIMS 50). Finally, we applied the zein/D-eugenol formulation onto skin to image the eugenol location on and in skin by SIMS (Secondary Ion Mass Spectrometry). RESULTS: We showed that eugenol evaporation from zein film can be divided in three periods. The first period (≤2 h) corresponds to the simultaneous solvent and eugenol evaporation occurring during film formation. The second period corresponds to the continuous and slow eugenol evaporation during a few hours (about 10 h) but not to its completion. The third period (at least up to 48 h) results from the trapping of eugenol in zein film. After 24 or 48 h, trapped eugenol can be released and evaporated under mechanical deformations of the film. Moreover we showed that zein addition does not favour the eugenol penetration into viable epidermis which may cause allergenic cutaneous reaction. CONCLUSION: The zein additive is safe to use, does not impact the olfactory perception, allows a better perception of the fragrance (long-lasting effect) in a more protective way and can be used in perfume. eug enol qui peutêtre lib er e et evapor e sous l'effet de d eformations m ecaniques du film. De plus, nous montrons que l'ajout de z eine ne favorise pas la p en etration de l'eug enol dans l' epiderme viable, ce qui aurait pu augmenter le risque de r eaction cutan ee ind esirable. CONCLUSION: L'utilisation de z eine comme additif n'alt ere pas la perception du parfum, permet une perception prolong ee du parfum (effet long lasting) sans risque pour la sant e. La z eine peut donĉ etre utilis ee dans une formulation cosm etique.

Release of Fragrances from Polymer Coatings Triggered by Contact with Sweat

“…In the literature, doxorubicin bound to various polymers by hydrazone linkages was released from polymers in acidic conditions. − In our work, the release was much more sustained over time due to the fact that the active monomer containing the fragrance was in a relatively hydrophobic coating. The release of fragrances extracted from polyamide films, chitosan/poly­(vinyl alcohol)/β-cyclodextrin nanofibers, and zein films with organic solvents was also investigated by GC–MS but not from responsive and cleavable polymers. We evaluated the stability of the surface of the coating by immersion tests in artificial sweat and compared the width of cracks and thickness of coatings before and after immersion of artificial sweat by SEM.…”

Keratin:Zein particles as vehicles for fragrance release on hair

“…A film-like structure surrounding the hair fibers was also observed. This behavior was already expected due to the excellent film forming properties characteristic of the zein protein (Cabin-Flaman et al, 2018;Lai and Padua, 1997;Torres-Giner et al, 2008). The keratin protein contain peptide sequences that have been designed by nature to interact with the keratin from hair through several hydrophobic, hydrogen and disulphide interactions (C. F. Cruz et al, 2017aCruz et al, , 2017b.…”