Effects of glycolic acid on desquamation‐regulating proteinases in human stratum corneum

Abstract

In order to investigate the mechanism of glycolic acid (GA) function in human stratum corneum, we monitored changes in cathepsin D-like (CD) and chymotrypsin-like (SCCE) proteinases for 3 weeks following topical GA application (50% w/v, pH 0.9) for 30 min to human skin. In the early phase, weakened stratum corneum cohesion in the lower layers was observed on day 2 and the amount of active CD in the upper layer of the stratum corneum was significantly decreased from 30 min until day 2, whereas that in the lower layer remained normal. In contrast, the amount of active SCCE showed no change during the experimental period. The surface pH of the stratum corneum drastically decreased to pH 2 at 30 min and slightly recovered to around pH 3 until 1 day after treatment. From 9 to 19 days, a decrease in corneocyte cell area and a remarkable long-term increase in the amount of active CD in the upper layer were observed. In an in vitro study, the activities of desquamation-regulating proteinases were shown to have remarkably increased at around pH 3, due to activation of CD at its optimal pH. These results suggest that GA functions via at least two different mechanisms, acute activation of CD in the lower layer by acidification around pH 3, along with inactivation of CD in the upper layer, and long-term enhancement of de novo CD production in the few weeks following GA treatment.

A Comparative Study of Glycolic Acid Versus Mixture of Trichloroacetic Acid and Glycolic Acid Peeling for Treatment of Three Benign Epidermal Lesions

“…GA caused detachment of keratinocytes and epidermolysis when applied prior to TCA, thus allowing deeper and more even penetration of the TCA solution [20].…”

Preventive effect of chemical peeling on ultraviolet induced skin tumor formation

“…In those studies, glycolic acid was applied first, then UV irradiation was done and increase of sunburn cell formation and DNA damages such as cyclobutane pyrimidine dimer (CPD) was observed. As glycolic acid removes the stratum corneum [4], and stratum corneum plays an important role for photoprotection, careful sunprotection is recommended during and after chemical peeling [24] or usage of these topical ointments which remove the stratum corneum. In our current study, UV irradiation was done first, then repetitive chemical peeling was performed under no UV irradiation, which resulted in photochemoprevention.…”

“…Glycolic acid, the most commonly used chemical peeling agent has been reported to contribute to the recovery of photodamaged skin through various actions depending on the skin cell type such as keratinocytes [3][4][5][6] melanocytes [7], and fibroblasts [3,5,6]. To achieve wrinkle removal by dermal remodeling, inflammatory process is accompanied [2].…”

Identification of promising antigenic components in latent fingermark residues

“…The desquamation process involves enzymatic proteolysis resulting in degradation of the proteins to allow the release of the dead cells. The main degraded proteins are the ones maintaining the cells together by microfilament links through the desmosomes and conferring its elasticity to the skin, like keratins, and the others implicated in the structure of the extracellular matrix responsible for the barrier role of the skin [19,9,[20][21][22]7,23].…”