Effects of ten weeks dynamic or isometric core training on climbing performance among highly trained climbers

Sæterbakken, Atle Hole; Loken, Einar; Scott, Suzanne; Hermans, Espen; Vereide, Vegard Albert; Andersen, Vidar

doi:10.1371/journal.pone.0203766

Cited by 17 publications

(30 citation statements)

References 37 publications

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“…The results of this study showed moderate positive correlation of DLL with 40 yard dash and T test. Our finding slightly differs from the results of Sharrock et al (14) where there was a weak positive correlation of DLL with 40 yard dash and T test. This may be due to a small sample size in the study of Sharrock et al (N = 35) and also lower number of male subjects in the study (N = 18).…”

Section: Discussioncontrasting

confidence: 99%

“…Even though several studies have been conducted to establish the role of core muscles in performance among various sports populations, the (2, 5, 6, 9-12) relationship between core strength or power and sports performance is still a controversial issue. A strong relationship between core and athletic performance has been reported among soccer players, surfing athletes and climbers (13)(14)(15). Nesser et al (5) investigated the relationship between core endurance training and athletic performance among collegiate football players.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Relationship of Core Power and Endurance with Performance in Random Intermittent Dynamic Type Sports

et al. 2019

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Objectives: To investigate the relationship of the core power and endurance with variables of athletic performance such as T test, medicine ball throw test, vertical jump test and 40 yard dash test in random intermittent dynamic type sports (RIDS). Methods: 58 male collegiate athletes involved in RIDS with mean age of 19.41 ± 1.19 years, height of 172 ± 6.62 cm, weight of 67.41 ± 8.80 kg and BMI of 22.56 ± 2.00 participated in this correlation study. The subjects were tested for core power, core endurance and performance variables. The core endurance was measured by McGill protocol and double leg lowering test (DLL) and the core power was measured by 60 seconds maximal sit-up test. Results: McGill protocol was positively correlated with medicine ball throw test (r = 0.688) and vertical jump test (r = 0.463). A strong negative correlation of McGill was identified with 40 yard dash test (r =-0.525) and T test (r =-0.687). At the same time DLL was positively correlated with 40 yard dash test (r = 0.374) and T test (r = 0.524). Only medicine ball throw test related significantly with the tests of core power. Conclusions: McGill test and DLL more significantly correlates with the performance variables such as medicine ball throw test, vertical jump test, 40 yard dash test and T test when compared with the core power measures of 60 seconds maximal sit-up test. The current study results also show that core muscle endurance is necessary for optimal performance and should not be neglected.

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Section: Discussioncontrasting

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Relationship of Core Power and Endurance with Performance in Random Intermittent Dynamic Type Sports

et al. 2019

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“…Taking into account that hand grip-strength and upper arm circumference parameters are widely studied in the elite climbing community indicating superior strength as arm extent in top athletes [ 1 , 6 , 11 , 19 , 20 , 21 ], we chose these parameters to assess whether this could as well be found in recreational climbers. In particular, we felt that athletes performing fitness and ball sports might also show proper overall grip strength, allowing for a better differentiation for what is specifically attributable to the recreational climbing athlete.…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Comparison of Grip Strength in Recreational Climbers and Non-Climbing Athletes—A Cross-Sectional Study

Assmann

Steinmetz

Schilling

et al. 2020

IJERPH

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In recent years, climbing sports is on the rise making its Olympic debut in 2021. Physiological traits of professional rock climbers have been intensively studied, while recreational indoor climbers are less investigated, especially regarding grip strength and upper extremity proportions. In this cross-sectional study, we aimed to understand what discerns the recreational climber from disparate recreational athletes. Therefore, we analyzed 50 recreational climbing (30.3 ± 12.7 years, 1.76 ± 0.09 m and 67.0 ± 14.0 kg) and 50 non-climbing athletes (26.4 ± 9.1 years, 1.78 ± 0.09 m and 73.2 ± 12.6 kg) to detect differences in their finger grip strength of seven different pinches. In addition, the upper extremity proportions were measured. Even in recreational climbers, almost all analyzed grips were stronger compared to other athletes (p < 0.05 in all but non-dominant fist, small to moderate effect sizes). Only the grip strength of the whole non-dominant hand was not significantly different (p = 0.17). Interestingly, differences between the dominant and non-dominant hand appeared to be larger in the non-climbing (all p < 0.05, all but one with small effect size) compared to the climbing cohort (pinch I/IV and pinch I/II+III+IV not different and mostly trivial). Circumference measurements showed that 10 cm below the lateral epicondyle, climbers exhibited significantly greater perimeter compared to non-climbing athletes (p < 0.05, small effect size). Our results show that recreational climbers have higher measured grip strength, but less profound differences between the dominant and non-dominant hand.

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“…The present is one of very few studies (Hermans et al, 2017;Philippe et al, 2019) examining actual climbing performance following climbing-specific training, whereas most of the literature have only assessed strength in climbing-related exercises González-Badillo, 2012, 2019;Medernach et al, 2015;Saeterbakken et al, 2018;Levernier and Laffaye, 2019a). Both groups maintained climbing ability in both disciplines and improved most of the tested variables despite having the same weekly climbing training frequency as before the intervention.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 90%

The Effects of Prioritizing Lead or Boulder Climbing Among Intermediate Climbers

Stien

Frøysaker

Hermans

et al. 2021

Front. Sports Act. Living

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This study compared the effects of prioritizing lead climbing or boulder climbing on climbing-specific strength and endurance, as well as climbing performance. Fourteen active climbers were randomized to a boulder climbing training group (BCT: age = 27.2 ± 4.4 years, body mass = 65.8 ± 5.5 kg, height = 173.3 ± 3.8 cm) or a lead-climbing training group (LCT: age = 27.7 ± 6.1 years, body mass = 70.2 ± 4.4 kg, height = 177.7 ± 4.4 cm). The groups participated in a 5-week training period consisting of 15 sessions, performing either two weekly bouldering sessions and one maintenance-session of lead-climbing (BCT) or two weekly lead-climbing sessions and one maintenance-session of bouldering (LCT). Pre- and post-training, maximal force and rate of force development (RFD) were measured during isometric pull-ups performed on a jug hold and a shallow rung, and during an isolated finger-strength test. Lead-climbing and bouldering performance were also measured, along with an intermittent forearm endurance test. The pre-to-post changes were not significantly different between the groups for any of the parameters (P = 0.062–0.710). However, both the BCT (ES = 0.30, P = 0.049) and LCT (ES = 0.41, P = 0.046) groups improved strength in the isometric pull-up performed using the jug, whereas neither group improved force in the rung condition (P = 0.054 and P = 0.084) or RFD (P = 0.060 and P = 0.070). Furthermore, climbing and bouldering performance remained unchanged in both groups (P = 0.210–0.895). The LCT group improved forearm endurance (ES = 0.55, P = 0.007), while the BCT group improved isolated finger strength (ES = 0.35, P = 0.015). In addition to isometric pull-up strength, bouldering can increase isolated finger strength while lead-climbing may improve forearm endurance. A 5-week period prioritizing one discipline can be safely implemented for advanced to intermediate climbers without risking declined performance in the non-prioritized discipline.

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Effects of ten weeks dynamic or isometric core training on climbing performance among highly trained climbers

Cited by 17 publications

References 37 publications

Relationship of Core Power and Endurance with Performance in Random Intermittent Dynamic Type Sports

Relationship of Core Power and Endurance with Performance in Random Intermittent Dynamic Type Sports

Comparison of Grip Strength in Recreational Climbers and Non-Climbing Athletes—A Cross-Sectional Study

The Effects of Prioritizing Lead or Boulder Climbing Among Intermediate Climbers

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