Efficacy and safety of a 3‐in‐1 antiaging night facial serum containing melatonin, bakuchiol, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate through clinical and histological analysis

Abstract

Background Changes induced by intrinsic and extrinsic photoaging result in signs of skin aging including altered pigmentation and wrinkles. A 3‐in‐1 night facial serum (NFS) was developed to treat skin aging by antioxidative and retinoid‐like mechanisms. Objective To determine the clinical and histological effects of the 3‐in‐1 NFS on signs of skin aging, clinically and histologically. Methods & Materials Twenty‐four subjects applied serum nightly for 12 weeks, and 12 subjects continued an extension study to 24 weeks. Clinical assessment of skin quality was performed by dermatologists. Skin biopsy was performed at 12 weeks to assess histological changes. Results There was a global aesthetic improvement over the duration of the study: +1.21 points at 12 weeks; +1.25 at 24 weeks. Skin texture, pigmentation, erythema, skin tone, complexion, lines, and wrinkles all significantly improved (P < .05). There was also a significant reduction in photodamage, hyperpigmentation, and wrinkle scores, most notably horizontal forehead expression lines, and marionette lines (P < .05 for all). Dermal and epidermal thickness increased without reaching statistical significance. Conclusion The 3‐in‐1 NFS had clinically and statistically significant effects on signs of skin aging after 12 weeks, which became more pronounced after 24 weeks.

Applications of bakuchiol in dermatology: Systematic review of the literature

“…In a following clinical study, this combination product resulted in increased global aesthetic assessment scores after nightly use for 12 weeks, even more pronounced after 24 weeks. Although skin biopsy at 12 weeks demonstrated non‐statistically significant increase in dermal and epidermal thickness 7 …”

“…Although skin biopsy at 12 weeks demonstrated non-statistically significant increase in dermal and epidermal thickness. 7 Bakuchiol was also studied in a 12 weeks open-label trial of a dual product regimen among women with mild to moderate • Two studies were performed in oily skin: a 1month efficacy and safety study and a 1-month comedogenesis study • At 3-months, clinical evaluation showed a statistically significant decrease in wrinkles (11%), increase in skin firmness (8%), reduction in redness (70%), and overall improvement in skin quality and complexion.…”

Hyperpigmentation: Looking beyond hydroquinone

“…A 3 in 1 night facial serum containing melatonin, bakuchiol, and ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate were found to improve skin texture, erythema, complexion, wrinkles, lines, and tone. Also, photo‐damage was significantly reduced along with hyperpigmentation and wrinkle scores after 12 weeks with pronounced effect after 25 weeks of treatment 81,82 . Night cream containing melatonin, carnosine, and Helichrysum italicum extract reduced skin damage due to environmental factors 83 …”

“…Also, photo-damage was significantly reduced along with hyperpigmentation and wrinkle scores after 12 weeks with pronounced effect after 25 weeks of treatment. 81,82 Night cream containing melatonin, carnosine, and Helichrysum italicum extract reduced skin damage due to environmental factors. 83…”

Influência da formulação dermocosmética na permeação de substâncias ativas para o controle de hipercromias cutâneas

“…Considerando que a melanogênese envolve um processo de oxidação, antioxidantes podem ser utilizados para inibir a produção de melanina. Dessa forma, alguns antioxidantes como o ácido ascórbico e derivados e o hidroxitirosol vem sendo propostos para aplicação em formulações dermocosméticas com propriedades despigmentantes O derivado lipossolúvel da vitamina C, tetraisopalmitato de ascorbila, apresenta atividade antioxidante, protegendo os danos da radiação UVA/UVB, bem como atua sobre os melanócitos reduzindo a atividade da tirosinase (Figura 3) (MAIA CAMPOS et al, 2012;JEON, et al, 2016;NARDA, et al, 2020;GOLDBERG, et al, 2020).…”