Essential Oils and Their Single Compounds in Cosmetics—A Critical Review

Sarkic, Asja; Stappen, Iris

doi:10.3390/cosmetics5010011

Cited by 292 publications

(218 citation statements)

References 74 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

204

Contrasting

Unclassified

Order By: Relevance

“…), in accordance with previous findings about the hair-growth stimulating effect of tobacco alkaloid-rich extracts, via the inhibition of 5-α-reductase activity [50]. As anticipated, the share of hydrocarbons (aliphatic and oxygenated) in the composition of the two extraction products was considerable (responsible for about 75% of the concrete and for about 35% of the resinoid), but not in that of the hydrodistilled EO [33][34][35][36][37]. Aliphatic hydrocarbons determined the appearance of the extraction concentrates (both were viscous masses, light or dark brown in color), but they are not carriers of the characteristic odor.…”

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 91%

“…An important aspect in the discussion of the possible future use of N. glutinosa aromatic products in perfumery and cosmetics is the presence of chemical structures, which may cause skin sensitivity, irritations and other symptoms of allergy response. Moreover, the results from this study ( Table 1) revealed that N. glutinosa leaf EO and extracts did not contain any of the 26 individual fragrance substances identified as allergens in humans, which must be indicated in the list of ingredients if exceeding 0.001% in leave-on products and 0.01% in rinse-off products [35,59]. Therefore, the results from this study might be a good starting point for future investigation on the aromatic products of N. glutinosa, similar to those performed on N. tabacum, in order to assess their safety as cosmetic products ingredients, in compliance with the provisions of Regulation (EC) No.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 73%

“…These products are all standardized, commercially recognized and produced on a relatively large base. They include EOs obtained almost exclusively by steam distillation and aromatic products obtained by extraction, i.e., absolutes, concretes, resinoids, aromatic waters, supercritical fluids extracts, pomades, and some others [33][34][35][36][37]. Since N. glutinosa has not yet been considered a source of natural aromatic products, in this study, we adapted the established processing technology [33,34] in order to obtain the EO, concrete, and resinoid of N. glutinosa leaves, and to identify the chemical profile of these products.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Therefore, the results about the high content of sclareol in the two concentrated aromatic products of N. glutinosa, and in particular in the concrete, may be considered very promising in terms of potential future use and larger-scale production. As the obtaining of concrete is the first step of producing plant absolutes (the second stage includes cold extraction of concrete with ethanol to remove precipitated fractions) [33][34][35][36], it makes rational the obtaining and characterization of N. glutinosa absolute as well, which is set as an objective for our future work.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 3 more Smart Citations

Terpenoids in the Essential Oil and Concentrated Aromatic Products Obtained from Nicotiana glutinosa L. Leaves

et al. 2019

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

N. glutinosa L. is a relatively less studied Nicotiana species (Solanaceae), although there are data about its importance as a model plant in viral control studies, as a gene donor in tobacco hybridization and as a source of agents with insecticidal or fungicidal effects. The biological activities of the species were associated mostly with the presence of leaf surface metabolites, in particular diterpenes and sucrose esters. The aim of this study was to identify the chemical composition of the essential oil (EO) and two aromatic extraction products (concrete and resinoid) obtained from N. glutinosa L. leaves. GC-MS analysis identified 26 components in the EO (representing 97.3% of total oil content), which contained mostly diterpene compounds with major components manool (14.2%), sclarene (8.4%) and manoyl oxide (8.1%). The number of compounds identified in the concrete was 37 (95.5% of the total content) and the major component was the diterpene alcohol sclareol (14.2%). In the resinoid, 30 volatile components (representing 95.1% of resinoid content) were identified, with major components nicotine (32.9%), α-tocopherol (8.2%), tridecanoin (6.9%), sclareol (6.9%), and solanone (6.9%). The group of bicyclic diterpenes had the largest share in the diterpene fraction of the products (57.3%, 91.7%, and 86.3%, respectively for the EO, concrete, and resinoid). Considering the abundance of sclareol in the aromatic products, the antimicrobial activity of the pure substance was determined. Sclareol was highly effective against a set of medicinally important yeasts; Candida albicans AТCC 10231, C. glabrata ATCC 90030, C. parapsilosis clinical isolate, and C. tropicalis NBIMCC 23, while being less effective against the studied Gram-positive and Gram-negative bacteria. Data from the study on N. glutinosa aromatic products composition may be of interest to the aroma industries for their possible use in perfumery and cosmetics.Molecules 2020, 25, 30 2 of 16 N. glutinosa is native to Northern and Central Peru and Southern Ecuador, where it has adapted well to semi-arid areas, rocky slopes and ditch banks [1,5]. Plants are more fragile and with tender stem than common tobacco (N. tabacum), rarely branching [6]. Leaves are petiolate, heart-shaped; with a maximum length of about 23 cm. Inflorescences are racemose with long peduncles. Unlike N. tabacum, the flowers of N. glutinosa tend to form bilabiate corolla and are deep orange in color with long anthers adhering to the upper lobe of the corolla, as in the bilabiate flowers of other families [6]. N. glutinosa germinates readily and grows well in both a greenhouse and the field [7]. There are three accessions of N. glutinosa, labeled as accessions (acc.) 24, 24A, and 24B [8].Data on the chemical composition of N. glutinosa leaves are generally limited [5], with the exception of those for alkaloids, as well as for sucrose esters, diterpene alcohols and other leaf surface exudate components [8][9][10][11][12][13][14][15]. The major alkaloid in N. glutinosa is nornicotine [16], alth...

show abstract

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 91%

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 73%

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 2 more Smart Citations

Terpenoids in the Essential Oil and Concentrated Aromatic Products Obtained from Nicotiana glutinosa L. Leaves

et al. 2019

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…The dried flowers are used for preparing the chamomile tea known for its multiple effects like: calming effect of fever, reassuring of nerves and reducer of anxiety of the nightmares, insomnia, and other sleep problems [9]. Moreover, the essential oils of chamomile are used in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, perfumery, and aromatherapy industries [10,11].The interest in obtaining bioactive compounds from plants for their further uses and applications have motivated the researchers to develop new and efficient methodologies…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

Supercritical fluid extraction in isolation of cyclitols and sugars from chamomile flowers

Al-Suod

Rațiu

Krakowska-Sieprawska

et al. 2019

J of Separation Science

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

The aim of the present study was to develop an optimization procedure for supercritical fluid extraction parameters, in order to obtain the highest possible yield of sugars and cyclitols from plant material. Response surface methodology based on Box-Behnken design was applied to evaluate the effect of: temperature (40, 60, 80 • C), pressure (100, 200, 300 bar), and co-solvent (methanol) percentage (20, 25, 30%). As a result of the optimization process, we found that the highest amount of sugars (15.02 mg/gof dried material) and cyclitols (0.86 mg/g of dried material) was obtained when the following parameters were applied: 80 • C, 228 bar, and 30% of methanol.Moreover, co-solvent concentration and temperature had a higher influence onto the obtained amounts compared with the pressure. K E Y W O R D S chamomile, cyclitols isolation, response surface methodology, sugars isolation, supercritical fluid extraction Article Related Abbreviations: ANOVA, analysis of variance; IS, internal standard; RSM, response surface methodology; SFE, supercritical fluid extraction; UAE, ultrasound-assisted extraction.Several studies reported cyclitols as anti-oxidant, antiinflammatory, and anticancer agents [3][4][5]. Other studies demonstrated that some cyclitols such as D-pinitol and chiroinositol possess insulin-like properties and they can be useful in treating of diabetes by reducing the level of blood glucose [6,7].Chamomile is a traditional herb used for medicinal purposes [8]. It is a member of Asteraceae family, represented by two common varieties viz. German Chamomile (Matricaria recutita L.) and Roman Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile). The dried flowers are used for preparing the chamomile tea known for its multiple effects like: calming effect of fever, reassuring of nerves and reducer of anxiety of the nightmares, insomnia, and other sleep problems [9]. Moreover, the essential oils of chamomile are used in the pharmaceutical, cosmetic, perfumery, and aromatherapy industries [10,11].The interest in obtaining bioactive compounds from plants for their further uses and applications have motivated the researchers to develop new and efficient methodologies

show abstract