Evaluation Method of Offshore Design Wave Considering Long Period Swell

Wave Characteristics Causing Coastal Damage Around the Typhoon Storm Zone: Analysis at Osato Coast for Typhoon No. 19, 2019

“…However, it can be inferred that the inundation damage was mainly caused by backflow at points where sediment movement contributed to sedimentation, and inundation damage was caused by overtopping waves at points where sediment movement contributed to erosion. The damage caused by "swell waves" has been increasing in recent years (Takashima et al, 2015) and the frequency of "swell waves," coastal disasters, and beach deformation is expected to increase due to changes in typhoon paths and increased intensity, which are considered to be the effects of global warming (Kashima et al, 2009). Here, sandy beaches on the coastline prevent hinterland inundation and overtopping as they are integrated with the embankment, providing an important facility for coastal disaster prevention.…”