Experimental study of wave-induced mass transport

Paprota, Maciej; Sulisz, Wojciech; Reda, Anna

doi:10.1080/00221686.2016.1168490

Cited by 23 publications

(21 citation statements)

References 34 publications

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“…Umeyama (2012) performed a similar expansion, but focused explicitly on particle trajectories and found reasonable agreement with experimentally obtained trajectories. Paprota et al (2016), who took their measurements after a relatively short wave train of periodic waves in a relatively long flume, found good agreement with the irrotational theory of Stokes (1847), supplemented by a closed-flume return current. For waves of intermediate water depth (kh = O(1)) and very large steepness, Grue & Kolaas (2017) found good agreement with nonlinear irrotational theory in the interior of the fluid in a set of very high-quality experiments.…”

Section: Introductionsupporting

confidence: 55%

Experimental study of particle trajectories below deep-water surface gravity wave groups

et al. 2019

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Owing to the interplay between the forward Stokes drift and the backward wave-induced Eulerian return flow, Lagrangian particles underneath surface gravity wave groups can follow different trajectories depending on their initial depth below the surface. The motion of particles near the free surface is dominated by the waves and their Stokes drift, whereas particles at large depths follow horseshoe-shaped trajectories dominated by the Eulerian return flow. For unidirectional wave groups, a small net displacement in the direction of travel of the group results near the surface, and is accompanied by a net particle displacement in the opposite direction at depth. For deep-water waves, we study these trajectories experimentally by means of particle tracking velocimetry in a two-dimensional flume. In doing so, we provide visual illustration of Lagrangian trajectories under groups, including the contributions of both the Stokes drift and the Eulerian return flow to both the horizontal and the vertical Lagrangian displacements. We compare our experimental results to leading-order solutions of the irrotational water wave equations, finding good agreement.

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Section: Introductionsupporting

confidence: 55%

Experimental study of particle trajectories below deep-water surface gravity wave groups

et al. 2019

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“…In fact, Paprota et al [71], who take their measurements after a relatively short wave train of periodic waves in a relatively long flume, find good agreement with the irrotational theory of Stokes [1], supplemented by a uniform return flow reflecting volume conservation in a closed domain. For waves of intermediate water depth (kh = O(1)) and very large steepness, Grue & Kolaas [72] find good agreement with nonlinear irrotational theory in the interior of the fluid in a set of very high-quality experiments.…”

Section: Laboratory Studiesmentioning

confidence: 79%

Stokes drift

Bremer

Breivik

2017

Phil. Trans. R. Soc. A.

135

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During its periodic motion, a particle floating at the free surface of a water wave experiences a net drift velocity in the direction of wave propagation, known as the Stokes drift (Stokes 1847 , 441-455). More generally, the Stokes drift velocity is the difference between the average Lagrangian flow velocity of a fluid parcel and the average Eulerian flow velocity of the fluid. This paper reviews progress in fundamental and applied research on the induced mean flow associated with surface gravity waves since the first description of the Stokes drift, now 170 years ago. After briefly reviewing the fundamental physical processes, most of which have been established for decades, the review addresses progress in laboratory and field observations of the Stokes drift. Despite more than a century of experimental studies, laboratory studies of the mean circulation set up by waves in a laboratory flume remain somewhat contentious. In the field, rapid advances are expected due to increasingly small and cheap sensors and transmitters, making widespread use of small surface-following drifters possible. We also discuss remote sensing of the Stokes drift from high-frequency radar. Finally, the paper discusses the three main areas of application of the Stokes drift: in the coastal zone, in Eulerian models of the upper ocean layer and in the modelling of tracer transport, such as oil and plastic pollution. Future climate models will probably involve full coupling of ocean and atmosphere systems, in which the wave model provides consistent forcing on the ocean surface boundary layer. Together with the advent of new space-borne instruments that can measure surface Stokes drift, such models hold the promise of quantifying the impact of wave effects on the global atmosphere-ocean system and hopefully contribute to improved climate projections.This article is part of the theme issue 'Nonlinear water waves'.

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“…There remains some confusion in the literature whether a net drift should be observed (see the discussion in [4,[32][33][34]). In addition to the solutions to the irrotational water wave equations [35,36], streaming in the boundary layers [33,37,38], convection of vorticity from the ends of the tank into the interior of the fluid [37,39] (or conduction from the free surface and bottom boundary layers [40]) or enhanced transport for particles on the surface in breaking waves may play a role [34,41,42]. Recently, van den Bremer et al [43] have demonstrated experimentally that Lagrangian transport by the combination of Stokes drift and the Eulerian return flow underneath uni-directional, deep-water surface gravity wavepackets is in good agreement with leading-order solutions to the irrotational water wave equations.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Laboratory study of the wave-induced mean flow and set-down in unidirectional surface gravity wave packets on finite water depth

et al. 2019

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The net movement of Lagrangian particles under water waves comprises a Stokes drift in the direction of wave propagation and an Eulerian return flow in the opposing direction. Accurate prediction of the Eulerian return flow in the ocean is of importance in modelling the transport of plastic pollution, oil, wreckage, and sediment. Herein, we derive a multiple-scales solution for the Eulerian mean flow under wavepackets that is valid for all water depths, both relative to the length of the wave and the length of the wavepacket. To validate this solution, we carry out Particle Tracking Velocimetry experiments in a long flume to extract the mean motion from Lagrangian seeding particles under wavepackets, finding good agreement. The extraction technique is able to deal with small background motion and sub-harmonic error waves associated with wave generation by the paddle, the latter being relatively large in finite-depth flume experiments. In finite depth, the return flow is forced by both the divergence of the Stokes transport on the wavepacket scale and the formation of a non-negligible mean set-down underneath the packet, which acts like a bounding streamtube in the form of a convergent-divergent duct. The magnitude of the horizontal return flow is thus enhanced, with particular relevance to transport in the finite-depth coastal environment.

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Experimental study of wave-induced mass transport

Cited by 23 publications

References 34 publications

Experimental study of particle trajectories below deep-water surface gravity wave groups

Experimental study of particle trajectories below deep-water surface gravity wave groups

Stokes drift

Laboratory study of the wave-induced mean flow and set-down in unidirectional surface gravity wave packets on finite water depth

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