Fabric handle properties of superfine wool fabrics with different fibre curvature, cashmere content and knitting tightness

Abstract

The handle properties of single jersey fabrics composed of superfine wools (17 μm) of different fibre curvature (114 vs. 74°/mm) in blends with cashmere (fibre curvature 49°/mm) were investigated. There were four blend ratios of cashmere (0, 25, 50, 75%) plus 100% cashmere. Each of the nine fibre blend combinations were replicated three times, and each was knitted into three tightness factors. The 81 fabrics were evaluated using the Wool HandleMeter, which measures seven primary handle attributes and Overall handle, and have been calibrated using a panel of experts and a wide variety of commercial fabrics. Results were analysed by ANOVA and general linear modelling. Tightness factor significantly affected all Wool HandleMeter attribute values, with the effect of tightness factor varying according to handle attribute. The Wool HandleMeter was able to detect differences between fabrics composed of superfine wool differing in fibre curvature, with lower fibre curvature wool fabrics having more preferred Overall handle and softer, looser, cooler, lighter and less dry handle attributes at some or all tightness factors compared with fabrics composed of higher fibre curvature superfine wool. Progressively blending cashmere with wool significantly improved Overall handle, increased soft and smooth handle, reduced dry, heavy and tight handle. Linear regression modelling indicated that fabric mass per unit area explained more than 50% of the variance in overall fabric handle and in combination with variations in fabric thickness and yarn elongation could explain 71% of the variance in Overall handle.

Variation in ovineKRTAP8-1is associated with variation in wool fibre staple strength and curvature

“…MSS is a raw wool characteristic that influences the efficiency of processing in combing-type wools, and it has become the second most important trait determining the clean price of combing wools after MFD (). MFC affects the crimping of wool fibres, and it is of interest to wool producers, as low-fibre curvature is associated with softness of handle and low resistance to compression of both raw and scoured wool (McGregor and Naebe, 2016). The associations detected in the current study suggest that selection for variant D and against variant A would lead to increased MSS, while selection for variant C would lead to decreased MFC.…”

Anti-pilling and anti-static bifunctional finishing of cashmere knitted fabric based on combinatorial foaming microcoating of anionic hydrophilic polyurethane

“…Certainly, these foams contribute to the natural hand-feeling property of cashmere. 26,27 For BC/TC polyurethane membranes, it is necessary to ensure they possess excellent soaking resistance to afford cashmere textiles with the desirable durability of pilling and static resistance. Of course, AWPU has poor alkali resistance, and thus is worthy of attention.…”

Measurement of fabric handle characteristics based on the Quick-Intelligent Handle Evaluation System for Fabrics (QIHES-F)

“…19 In recent years, researchers have focused on fabric handle research mainly in fabric types, chemical processing and evaluation models, but there are few studies on the instruments of fabric handle. [20][21][22] The newer instruments mainly include the tissue softness analyzer (TSA) and the comprehensive handle evaluation system for fabrics and yarns (CHES-FY). The TSA is mainly used to measure the paper surface by recording the audio spectrum at different vibration frequencies, combining the basic weight and thickness of the sample to calculate the hand-feeling value.…”