Fifty shades of African lightness: a bio-psychosocial review of the global phenomenon of skin lightening practices

Abstract

Skin-lightening is an aesthetic practice of global concern. By adopting a biopsycho-social approach, we consider the interplay between the biological, psychological and social factors that underpin the circulation and consumption of skin lighteners in South Africa. This paper reflects on biological aspects of skin lightening, interpersonal relationships, individual beliefs and expectations about the maintenance of health and well being that informs cosmetic practices. The paper seeks to examine claims made by historians (Thomas) and political philosophers and activists (Biko) that colonialism and apartheid in South Africa historically reinforced the use of skin lightening products in the country. The paper also investigates the role of media in staking out the boundaries of beauty. We argue that men and women practice skin-lightening not only as a complex result of the internalization of global standards of beauty, but meshed with a national politics of race and colorism. Banning skin lightening products without understanding the biological effects but also the social forces that underlie their increased popularity will prove futile. Moreover, we must consider the immeasurable pleasures associated with lightening, and the feelings with achieving visibility in South Africa, a country that continues to wrestle with blackness.

“The unfair drive to be fair”: Psychosocial aspects and implications of the use of skin lightening agents

“…This Act provided lighter skinned individuals better job options and higher pay-scale among other opportunities. 1 Media often advertises fair skin to be more attractive and beautiful. Fair skin is portrayed as a necessary means to become successful.…”

“…Any form of alteration of the skin, be it with skin lightening treatments, tanning, tattooing, or piercing gives a person a sense of belonging to a community. 1 How a person views oneself is largely shaped by the opinion of others. This in turn leads to "self-objectification", a significant factor associated with body shame, low self-esteem and in general, poor well-being.…”

An unlikely turning point: Skin bleaching and the growth of colourism in South Africa

“…Skin lightening also receives boosts from the popularity of light-skinned celebrities whose images are widely circulated via social and conventional media and whose complexions are widely admired ( Jablonski, 2011( Jablonski, , 2012. Paradoxically, sales of skin lightening products increased in South Africa after 1994 because lighter skin and straighter hair were perceived as more modern and more professional ( Jacobs, Levine, Abney & Davids, 2016). It is far too simplistic to say that women (and the majority of consumers of skin lighteners are women) want to be white, but that retention of dark skin (and natural hair) reduces opportunities for professional training and advancement, and marriage prospects.…”

Colourism: a global adolescent health concern

“…Skin-lightening poses a significant risk to health as many products contain toxic chemicals such as mercury, hydroquinone, and corticosteroids (6). Their (unmonitored) use can cause permanent skin damage (including post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, contact dermatitis, and ochronosis), as well as life-threatening conditions such as renal failure and skin cancer (38). Despite the ban of hazardous chemical ingredients such as hydroquinone in over-the-counter cosmetic skin-lightening products in countries such as Australia, Ghana, South Africa, and throughout Europe, these products are still widely available elsewhere and on the black market, and are often very affordable and accessible (38).…”

“…Their (unmonitored) use can cause permanent skin damage (including post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, contact dermatitis, and ochronosis), as well as life-threatening conditions such as renal failure and skin cancer (38). Despite the ban of hazardous chemical ingredients such as hydroquinone in over-the-counter cosmetic skin-lightening products in countries such as Australia, Ghana, South Africa, and throughout Europe, these products are still widely available elsewhere and on the black market, and are often very affordable and accessible (38). Moreover, some evidence suggests that even when products have been deemed to have 'safe' levels of hydroquinone by FDA standards, regular unmonitored use can lead to accumulation of ingredients in the liver and kidneys, which can eventually cause irreversible damage (39).…”