2021
DOI: 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.104004
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Freak waves caused by reflection

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Cited by 8 publications
(2 citation statements)
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“…These three frameworks are complementary, because they rely on different physical approaches, respectively: Fluid dynamics analysis of wave harmonics, the statistical mechanics of water waves, and the lifting of long-held implicit assumptions regarding the homogeneity of ocean waves. Nonetheless, the generality of the third framework may have the advantage of being applicable to any out-of-equilibrium water wave problem besides nonuniform bathymetry, such as opposing currents [30] or reflection [31].…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…These three frameworks are complementary, because they rely on different physical approaches, respectively: Fluid dynamics analysis of wave harmonics, the statistical mechanics of water waves, and the lifting of long-held implicit assumptions regarding the homogeneity of ocean waves. Nonetheless, the generality of the third framework may have the advantage of being applicable to any out-of-equilibrium water wave problem besides nonuniform bathymetry, such as opposing currents [30] or reflection [31].…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…Wave focusing: Wave energy may be concentrated in a small area because of wave trapping, refraction, and re ection, such as wave-current interaction; wind force; bottom topography in uence, etc. [11][12][13]. e modulation instability, also known as Benjamin-Feir instability [14], has been accepted by many researchers to explain the occurrence of freak waves.…”
Section: Introductionmentioning
confidence: 99%