Despite criticisms of their derivation and implementation, corporate codes of conduct (CoCs) continue to dominate debates on Corporate Social Responsibility and the informal regulation of worker exploitation and abuse by 'sweatshops' supplying northern multinational corporations (MNCs
KeywordsSweatshop labour, codes of conduct, corporate social responsibility, supply chains, women workers Corporate codes of conduct (CoCs) have become a critical aspect of debates over business responsibilities to reduce abuse and exploitation of workers by suppliers in developing societies. Attention has focused particularly on high-profile, 'brand' corporations sourcing goods such as footwear and clothing for retailers and consumers in the global 'north'. The public aims of CoCs are to improve the material welfare of workers in contract suppliers' factories, to curb or remove arbitrary and coercive exercises of managerial power and authority, and to substantiate workers' human rights, such as freedom of association and gender rights. A snap verdict of CoC effectiveness in these areas would be largely negative (Hale and Wills, 2007;Raworth and Coryndon, 2004;War On Want, 2008). With ineffective monitoring and unauthorized subcontracting, brands and retailers often fail to track their producers and hence enforce CoCs -not only at factories in developing countries (Level Works, 2009), but even in the heartland of some brands' headquarters, such as the UK (Dispatches, 2010). Through new evidence from garment factories in Vietnam, we challenge and investigate a key assumption of both CoC supporters and some critics: the feasibility of a unilinear corporate chain of command through supply firms' managements into local workplaces.We focus, first, on oversimplifications of corporate power and control presupposing an underlying principal-agent conception in many -especially prescriptive accounts -of corporate responsibility via CoCs. This part of the analysis derives from existing accounts that point to the importance of a wider complex of institutional relationships within which multinational corporations' (MNC) transactions operate: both the globalized industrial and market structures of the clothing industry and the varying socio-political and cultural contexts affecting sweatshop supplier enterprises. The second focus links this 'macro' analysis with new micro-level data on CoC changes and the political economy of labour relations among clothing workers and firms in Vietnam. This data informs our second and more distinctive argument: powerful explanation for CoC's ineffectiveness than those based on deficiencies in the application of codes.These arguments are developed in four sections. The first outlines the general debates over the purposes and role of CoCs in supply relationships between western MNCs and contractors in developing societies. The second section examines the complications posed for these arrangements by the complex economic and social institutions governing supply chains. The third section presents the evide...