Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq-Type Modelling of Infragravity Wave Transformation Over a Low-Sloping Beach

Tissier, Marion; Bonneton, Philippe; Ruessink, Gerben; Marche, Fabien; Chazel, Florent; Lannes, David

doi:10.9753/icce.v33.currents.28

Cited by 4 publications

(4 citation statements)

References 13 publications

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“…h 0 decreases), which is due to the bore merging phenomenon. This decrease is much stronger for vN03-C3 (from 3.53 to 1.99 rad s −1 ) because large-amplitude infragravity waves favour bore merging (Tissier et al 2017). However, as for the Burgers case (see figure 4), the shape of the energy spectrum at the SW scales, ω > ω m , is not affected by low-frequency waves.…”

Section: Assessment Of the Analytical Wave Energy Spectrummentioning

confidence: 81%

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Energy and dissipation spectra of waves propagating in the inner surf zone

Bonneton

2023

J. Fluid Mech.

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The spectral behaviour of random sawtooth waves propagating in the inner surf zone is investigated in this study. We show that the elevation energy spectrum exhibits a universal shape with an $\omega ^{-2}$ tendency in the inertial subrange and an exponential decay in the diffusive subrange ( $\omega$ being the angular frequency). A theoretical spectrum is derived based on the similarities between sawtooth waves in the inner surf zone and Burgers wave solutions. Very good agreement is shown between this theoretical spectrum and laboratory experiments covering a large range of incident random wave conditions. Additionally, an equation describing the universal shape of the dissipation spectrum is derived. It highlights that the dissipation spectrum is nearly constant in the inertial subrange, consistent with prior laboratory observations. The findings presented in this study can be useful to improve broken wave dissipation parametrizations in stochastic spectral wave models.

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Section: Assessment Of the Analytical Wave Energy Spectrummentioning

confidence: 81%

“…Moreover, the time evolution of ω m is controlled in the surf zone by the wave front merging phenomenon. Tissier, Bonneton & Ruessink (2017) showed that this phenomenon is favoured by the presence of infragravity waves whose intensity depends on incident wave conditions.…”

Section: Description Of Datasetsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Energy and dissipation spectra of waves propagating in the inner surf zone

Bonneton

2023

J. Fluid Mech.

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“…A benefit of this fully nonlinear phase‐resolving approach is that no specific parameterization is required to represent surf‐zone dynamics associated with IG waves and setup because the model appropriately accounts for momentum balances created by an irregular incident wave field (Bonneton et al, , ). Similar models have been shown to accurately represent the formation and behavior of IG waves gentle sloping beaches (Tissier et al, ) and on coral reefs (Roeber & Bricker, ; Shimozono et al, ).…”

Section: Methodsmentioning

confidence: 89%

Future Reef Growth Can Mitigate Physical Impacts of Sea‐Level Rise on Atoll Islands

2017

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We present new detail on how future sea‐level rise (SLR) will modify nonlinear wave transformation processes, shoreline wave energy, and wave driven flooding on atoll islands. Frequent and destructive wave inundation is a primary climate‐change hazard that may render atoll islands uninhabitable in the near future. However, limited research has examined the physical vulnerability of atoll islands to future SLR and sparse information are available to implement process‐based coastal management on coral reef environments. We utilize a field‐verified numerical model capable of resolving all nonlinear wave transformation processes to simulate how future SLR will modify wave dissipation and overtopping on Funafuti Atoll, Tuvalu, accounting for static and accretionary reef adjustment morphologies. Results show that future SLR coupled with a static reef morphology will not only increase shoreline wave energy and overtopping but will fundamentally alter the spectral composition of shoreline energy by decreasing the contemporary influence of low‐frequency infragravity waves. “Business‐as‐usual” emissions (RCP 8.5) will result in annual wave overtopping on Funafuti Atoll by 2030, with overtopping at high tide under mean wave conditions occurring from 2090. Comparatively, vertical reef accretion in response to SLR will prevent any significant increase in shoreline wave energy and mitigate wave driven flooding volume by 72%. Our results provide the first quantitative assessment of how effective future reef accretion can be at mitigating SLR‐associated flooding on atoll islands and endorse active reef conservation and restoration for future coastal protection.

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“…The weakly-dispersive finite-difference solver for wave propagation and shoaling is locally removed in areas of wave breaking, allowing wave shape and dissipation to be solved with a finite-volume solution of the NSW equations (Popinet, 2015). Similar approaches to represent wave breaking are becoming increasingly popular in a new generation of shock-capturing GN models (Bonneton et al, 2011a;Bonneton et al, 2011b;Lannes and Marche, 2015;Popinet, 2015;Tissier et al, 2012a;Tissier et al, 2012b). In Popinet (2015)…”

Section: Wave Breakingmentioning

confidence: 99%

Model Skill and Sensitivity for Simulating Wave Processes on Coral Reefs Using a Shock-Capturing Green-Naghdi Solver

Beetham

Kench

Popinet

2018

Journal of Coastal Research

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Wave flume data from published benchmark experiments were used to extensively evaluate numerical model skill and sensitivity for applying a shock-capturing Green-Naghdi (GN) model to simulate nonlinear wave transformation processes on complex coral reefs. Boussinesq-type models that utilise nonlinear shallow water equations (NSWEs) to represent wave breaking and dissipation hold significant potential for understanding coastal hazards associated with global environmental change and sealevel rise. These fully nonlinear phase-resolving models typically require a threshold condition to switch from dispersive equations to shock-capturing NSWEs in areas of active wave breaking. However, limited information exits regarding how this splitting approach influences the behaviour of different surf-zone processes that contribute to wave runup and inundation on coral reefs. This paper presents a comprehensive analysis of model sensitivity to explore how input parameters that control wave breaking and dissipation influence the behaviour of sea-swell (SS) waves, infragravity (IG) waves, wave setup, runup and solitary waves on coral reefs. Results show that each wave process exhibits unique sensitivity to the free-surface slope threshold (B) that is used to represent areas of active wave breaking by locally switching from the weakly-dispersive GN equations to the shock-capturing NSWEs. However, accurate representation of all wave processes can be achieved if the wave-face steepens to at least 35 degrees (B ≥ 0.7) before breaking is initiated. Results from this research support and encourage the use of nonlinear phase-resolving wave models as tools for academic research, coastal management, coastal engineering and hazard forecasting on atoll and fringing reef environments.

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Fully Nonlinear Boussinesq-Type Modelling of Infragravity Wave Transformation Over a Low-Sloping Beach

Cited by 4 publications

References 13 publications

Energy and dissipation spectra of waves propagating in the inner surf zone

Energy and dissipation spectra of waves propagating in the inner surf zone

Future Reef Growth Can Mitigate Physical Impacts of Sea‐Level Rise on Atoll Islands

Model Skill and Sensitivity for Simulating Wave Processes on Coral Reefs Using a Shock-Capturing Green-Naghdi Solver

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