“…In the last two decades, multi‐stakeholder initiatives (MSIs) have proliferated across a wide range of contexts, industries and sectors, involving, for instance, the monitoring and certification of factories and farms in garment, textiles and footwear production at the base of value chains in the global South (Fowler and Biekart, 2017; Kabeer et al., 2020; Soundararajan et al., 2019). Although sustainability standards promoted by MSIs, for example, fair trade or organics, historically covered only a marginal part of world production and trade in most commodities (around 1–2 per cent, according to Ponte, 2020), recent years have witnessed significant upscaling and mainstreaming of world production and trade in commodities covered by sustainability standards, such as bananas, cocoa, coffee, cotton, palm oil, soy beans, sugar cane, tea and forestry (Raynolds, 2018). For instance, between 2013 and 2017, the certified area of cotton production increased by 172 per cent and by the 2017–18 growing season, at least 19 per cent of the global total was covered by a single sustainability standard, the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) (ITC, 2019).…”