Hair as Race: Why “Good Hair” May Be Bad for Black Females

Abstract

Critically examining the relationship between race, Black female beauty, and hair texture, this qualitative study used narratives from 38 Black females between the ages of 19 and 81, to determine messages that communicate hair valuations to Black females, definitions of good and bad hair, and motivations for desiring good hair. A legacy of slavery, hair valuations reflect racially motivated beauty standards that work against Black females. As Chris Rock's Good Hair (2009) illustrates, the connection of hair to beauty intersect with race and gender, placing a particular burden on Black females whose naturally kinky hair textures are low on beauty continuums. Through communication from adults, peers, and males, Black females learn about good and bad hair valuations. However, participants' own descriptions of, and motivations for, good hair are more relevant to maintenance than beauty-bad hair needs straightening, good hair does not. Unstraightened, the shorter, kinky textures can be difficult to comb, style, and manage. Yet, it is the kinkiness that allows the creative diversity of popular Black hairstyles that, paradoxically, makes bad hair particularly good for unstraightened styles. Hair valuations are bad for Black females because they elevate White beauty standards and devalue hair textures common among Black females.KEYTERMS Black hair, color complex, colorism, good and bad hair, kink factor, White beauty standards In Black homes and communities all across the United States, there exists a hidden caste system with a long and painful history (Blay, 2010;Kerr,

Culture clash: appearance concerns in black and minority ethnic groups

“…However, with darker skin comes a greater risk of keloid scarring and dyspigmentation following surgery if not properly managed (Grimes and Hunt, 1993). Chemical treatments to straighten or 'relax' Afro-textured hair are also common among BME groups, despite the understanding that such treatments can damage the hair and scalp permanently (Robinson, 2011).…”

Relational Aggression among Female African American Undergraduates: An Intersectional Perspective

“…84)." The notion of "good hair" is thought to be detrimental to women of color (Robinson, 2011), however it continues to persist, as reflected in the following statement from a woman's mother about her choice of husbands, "Lord, child, you better not marry no nappy-headed man 'cause I can't deal with no Brillo-headed grandbabies (Russell et al, 1992, p. 97).…”

“…Contrasting the valuation of "good hair" (hair that is straight and requires less upkeep) is the belief that more natural hairstyles should be embraced as part of Black culture (Robinson, 2011;Russell et al, 1992). The debate is a fierce one with one researcher noting; "for black women hair is political, and those who are "happy nappy" consider perming "politically incorrect," just as others consider unstraightened hair a disgrace.…”

“…The division became more entrenched with admittance to social clubs, churches, and academic institutions relying on standards that gave preferential status to those with lighter skin and straighter hair (Russell et al, 1992). While we no longer see combs hung outside of churches or compare people to a paper bag for admission to social events, this issue of colorism still remains (Hunter, 2002;Robinson, 2011;Russell et al, 1992).…”

“…Additional aspects of African American culture that may also affect the content of relationally aggressive behaviors are issues of colorism and the concept of "good hair" (Robinson, 2011;Russell, Wilson, & Hall, 1992). The role of skin tone within the African American community is one influenced by historical factors, and evidence from contemporary studies suggests it continues to be a pressing issue within the community today (Hunter, 2002;Russell et al, 1992).…”