Hair Care Cosmetics: From Traditional Shampoo to Solid Clay and Herbal Shampoo, A Review

Abstract

Hair is an important part of the body appeal and its look is a health indicator. Accordingly, recent advances in hair science and hair care technologies have been reported in literature claiming innovations and strategies for hair treatments and cosmetic products. The treatment of hair and scalp, primarily, involved the use of shampoo for an effective, but gentle cleansing; however, for years, the shampoo is considered not only as a cosmetic product having the purifying purpose, but it is also responsible for maintaining the health and the beauty of hair, imparting gloss and improving manageability. For meeting the needs of a multitasking formulation, following also the recent marketing-trend addressed to the "natural world", new challenges for cosmetic technology are aimed towards the research of natural ingredients, as well as new techniques for shampoo formulation. Regarding the recent development of solid shampoos, little information is available about their use, formulation and advantages. This review is largely focused on the description of solid shampoos, mainly based on the use of clays, herbs or flours as washing bases alternative to the traditional ones, consisting of a combination of synthetic surfactants, together with other usual ingredients expected in a shampoo formulation.

Physicochemical Aspects of the Performance of Hair-Conditioning Formulations

“…Furthermore, a current practice in cosmetic industry is the use of plant-derived compounds, such as panthenol or squalene, to substitute those commonly used in formulations which may be originated from non-acceptable sources (animals or synthesis). In general, the performance of proteins as repairing agents of hair is the result of their penetration into the hair shaft, enabling moisture retention and making the fiber less susceptible to breakage [3].…”

“…Nowadays, mixtures involving several surfactants of different nature for are generally used improving the performance of the formulations and for eco-sustainability purposes. Examples of surfactants appearing in commercial formulations are as follows [3,36,40]:…”

“…They may be also used as softeners. Examples of cosmetically acceptable cationic surfactants for hair-conditioning products are benzalkonium chloride, trimetrhylalkylammonium chloride or cetylpyridinium cetrimonium chloride [3,47]. • Nonionic surfactants.…”

“…This means that the cuticle disappearance leads to the environmental exposure of the cortex and other damages which may cause the fracture of the hair fibers [2]. However, the outermost part of the capillary fibers may be partially repaired using hair-conditioning procedures, which are generally physical method enabling the temporal covering and filling of the damaged area of the cuticle, which leads to a reduction of the friction between fibers and an enhanced water absorption [3][4][5]. Furthermore, the application of hair-conditioning products may increase the hair volume, softness and glossiness, reduce frizz, improve hair manageability, and stimulate new hair growth as well as clean hair from detritus [2].…”

“…The root is strongly attached to the hair follicle, appearing located between the bulb and the surface of the epidermis, where the hair takes the form of the stem. As the cells move toward the surface of the skin, the amino acids that they contain start to bind, creating what is known as a hair shaft [3,27]. The roots and stem present a hierarchical multilayered structure formed by three concentric layers: (i) medulla, (ii) cortex, and (iii) cuticle.…”