Hair Growth Activity of Three Plants of the Polynesian Cosmetopoeia and Their Regulatory Effect on Dermal Papilla Cells

Abstract

Hair loss is becoming increasingly prevalent as dietary and living habits change. The search for natural products to limit hair loss has led to tapping into traditional cosmetic knowledge. We studied three plants of the Polynesian cosmetopoeia, Bidens pilosa, Calophyllum inophyllum and Fagraea berteroana, to determine their ability to promote hair growth. Their chemical content was characterized by liquid chromatography coupled to mass spectrometry (LC-MS). Their proliferative activity on dermal papilla cells (DPCs) was assessed via MTT assay and molecular targets were evaluated by RT-qPCR analysis of seven factors involved in the modulation of the hair cycle, CCND1, LEF1, DKK1, WNT5A PPARD, TGFΒ1, PPARD and RSPO2. Our results show that our extracts significantly increased proliferation of dermal papilla cells. Furthermore, LC-MS/MS analysis revealed a diversity of molecules, flavonoids, iridoids and organic acids, some known for hair-inducing properties. Finally, specific extracts and fractions of all three plants either upregulated CCND1, LEF1 and PPARD involved in stimulating hair follicle proliferation and/or lowered the gene expression levels of hair growth inhibiting factors, DKK1 and TGFB1. Our findings suggest that extracts from B. pilosa, C. inophyllum and F. berteroana are interesting candidates to stimulate hair growth.

Feature-Based Molecular Networks Identification of Bioactive Metabolites from Three Plants of the Polynesian Cosmetopoeia Targeting the Dermal Papilla Cells of the Hair Cycle

“…Clusters 3 & 4 contained phenolic acids such as chlorogenic acid (cluster 3) m / z 353.0878 [M − H] − and p-coumaric acid (cluster 4) m / z 163.0401 [M − H] − . The latter was previously identified in our extracts [ 7 ]. While cluster 3 was mainly composed of features present in B. pilosa and F. berteroana fractions, cluster 4 grouped features mostly present in C. inophyllum .…”

“…Nonetheless, taxifolin-6-C-glucoside and aromadendrin-6-C-glucoside were discovered in the stem barks of Fagraea auriculata and Fagraea ceilanica respectively [ 43 ]. Furthermore, kaempferol-C 6 H 10 O 7 S m / z 511.0548 [M − H] − and quercetin-C 6 H 10 O 7 S m / z 527.0501 [M − H] − , sulfur containing metabolites previously detected in C. inophyllum [ 7 ], showed a positive correlation to the cell proliferation.…”

“…The aerial parts of B. pilosa , the leaves of C. inophyllum and the fruits of F. berteroana were thus previously extracted using solvents of gradual polarity (ethyl acetate, ethanol: water (50:50) and water). Ultimately, the ethyl acetate extracts of all three plants and their respective plant part showed greater bioactivity upon further investigation of their in vitro anti-inflammatory and antioxidant activity, as well as their dermal papilla cell proliferation activity and RT-qPCR regulation of several genes involved in the hair cycle [ 7 , 8 ]. After these bioassays, first we proceeded to LC-MS/MS analyses and were able to annotate 19 compounds but had not isolated or elucidated any using NMR, nor had the hair growth related biological activities of the compounds been assessed.…”

In Vitro Hair Dermal Papilla Cells Induction by Fagraea berteroana, a Tree of the Marquesan Cosmetopoeia (French Polynesia)

“…Our previous work on FEAE revealed the presence of loganic and coumaric acids [42]. The present paper mainly focused on the minor bioactive fraction FEAE-F0, derived from FEAE the crude extract previously studied [42].…”

“…Our previous work on FEAE revealed the presence of loganic and coumaric acids [42]. The present paper mainly focused on the minor bioactive fraction FEAE-F0, derived from FEAE the crude extract previously studied [42]. An exhaustive search of all compounds found in the literature for the genus Fagraea and their available MS 2 was compiled in Table S1 (Supplementary Material).…”