Harmonic-induced wave breaking due to abrupt depth transitions: An experimental and numerical study

Draycott, Samuel; Li, Y.; Stansby, Peter; Adcock, Thomas A. A.; Bremer, Ton S. van den

doi:10.1016/j.coastaleng.2021.104041

Cited by 15 publications

(4 citation statements)

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“…The additionally released free waves carry energy and propagate at a different speed from the bound waves responsible for their generation. The differences in the propagation speed of waves lead to their separation at a distance sufficiently far from the top of depth transitions, thus leading to non-homogeneous wave features (Massel, 1983;Li et al, 2021a,b,c;Draycott et al, 2022). We would also like to stress that another physics-based model has been derived by Majda et al (2019) for shallow-water extreme waves experiencing depth transitions.…”

Section: Physical Mechanisms and Modelingmentioning

confidence: 89%

“…The features of extreme waves in a varying water region are in principle complex as they are altered by a number of physical parameters such as the non-dimensional wave depth kh; the "mildness" of the depth variation relative to the change of wavelength; Ursell number, which measures the degree of the wave nonlinearity relative to a local water depth; directional spreading; the profile shape of a varying bathymetry; and the difference and ratio of water depths (Sergeeva et al, 2011;Zeng and Trulsen, 2012;Viotti and Dias, 2014;Ducrozet and Gouin, 2017;Kashima and Mori, 2019;Zheng et al, 2020;Kimmoun et al, 2021;Li et al, 2021a,b,c;Lawrence et al, 2022). The location where the largest probability of extreme waves atop a varying bathymetry may occur has also been found to coincide with the one where the monochromatic surface waves start to break as the waves steepen (Draycott et al, 2022). Different from the aforementioned findings, the local peak of kurtosis and skewness near the top of a mildly shoaling slope was not reported in Zeng and Trulsen (2012) using numerical simulations, confirmed by Lawrence et al (2021).…”

Section: Physical Mechanisms and Modelingmentioning

confidence: 96%

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On the formation of coastal rogue waves in water of variable depth

Chabchoub¹

2023

Camb. prisms Coast. futures

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Wave transformation is an intrinsic dynamic process in coastal areas. An essential part of this process is the variation of water depth, which plays a dominant role in the propagation features of water waves, including a change in wave amplitude during shoaling and de-shoaling, breaking, celerity variation, refraction and diffraction processes. Fundamental theoretical studies have revolved around the development of analytical frameworks to accurately describe such shoaling processes and wave group hydrodynamics in the transition between deep- and shallow-water conditions since the 1970s. Very recent pioneering experimental studies in state-of-the-art water wave facilities provided proof of concept validations and improved understanding of the formed extreme waves’ physical characteristics and statistics in variable water depth. This review recaps the related most significant theoretical developments and groundbreaking experimental advances, which have particularly thrived over the last decade.

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Section: Physical Mechanisms and Modelingmentioning

confidence: 89%

Section: Physical Mechanisms and Modelingmentioning

confidence: 96%

On the formation of coastal rogue waves in water of variable depth

Chabchoub¹

2023

Camb. prisms Coast. futures

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“…In Lagrangian models, convection terms may be calculated without numerical diffusion, which is unavoidable in grid-based methods. Hence, particlebased methods, such as smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) [21,22] and the moving particle semi-implicit (MPS) method [23], have been applied to a variety of wave breaking simulations [2,6,7,24,25]. Moreover, in particle-based methods, physical boundaries such as wavemakers may be readily simulated using Dynamic Boundary Particles (DBPs) [26], which allows for the creation of a numerical wave tank.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The effects of smoothing length on the onset of wave breaking in smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) simulations of highly directionally spread waves

et al. 2022

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Ocean wave breaking is a difficult-to-model oceanographic process, which has implications for extreme wave statistics, the dissipation of wave energy, and air-sea interaction. Numerical methods capable of reliably simulating real-world directionally spread breaking waves are useful for investigating the physics of wave breaking and for the design of offshore structures and floating bodies. Smoothed particle hydrodynamics is capable of modelling highly steep and overturning free surfaces, which makes it a promising method for simulating breaking waves. This paper investigates the effect of smoothing length on simulated wave breaking in both following and crossing seas. To do so, we reproduce numerically the experiments of highly directionally spread breaking waves in McAllister et al.

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“…SPH, a meshless method where nodes (particles) are not interconnected, is highly suitable for modeling free-surface flow, where models flexible enough to accommodate for complex boundary conditions are favored (Violeau & Rogers, 2016). Such properties make it ideal for applications in coastal engineering, such as in recent examples Draycott et al (2022) and Lowe et al (2022) SPHysics is an SPH computational fluid dynamics model for weakly-compressible flow with focus on simulating violent coastal/offshore phenomena and their effects on coastal/offshore infrastructure (Domínguez, et al, 2021). DualSPHysics is an open-source project developed to address computational expense of the SPHysics model involving high particle counts by making use of the Graphical Processing Unit.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Surface Gravity Wave Generation and Interference Effects in SPH Models

Shen¹

2022

iSTEAMC

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DualSPHysics is an open-source implementation of the SPH (smoothed-particle hydrodynamics) particle mechanics model built for applications in coastal and ocean engineering, suitable for cases possessing complex surface boundary conditions and interactions of fluids with bound objects. This work seeks to examine the general plausibility of utilization of DualSPHysics for modeling cases involving the diffraction and interference effects of surface gravity waves. The work attempts to seek optimized parameters for wave generation intended to be used in diffraction and interference cases at lower simulation resolutions by taking advantage of simulation parameters such as gravity, construct simple examples to demonstrate the plausibility to use the model with more complex cases (possibly involving diffraction and interference off lattices), and validate wave behaviors (related to gravity) within the model using accepted theories of surface wave propagation. The paper identifies several limitations whose mitigation was deemed necessary for further success applying DualSPHysics to diffraction and interference problems, as well as further analysis and tests needed for a complete assessment of the tested cases.

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Harmonic-induced wave breaking due to abrupt depth transitions: An experimental and numerical study

Cited by 15 publications

References 50 publications

On the formation of coastal rogue waves in water of variable depth

On the formation of coastal rogue waves in water of variable depth

The effects of smoothing length on the onset of wave breaking in smoothed particle hydrodynamics (SPH) simulations of highly directionally spread waves

Surface Gravity Wave Generation and Interference Effects in SPH Models

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