Highly nonlinear wind waves in Currituck Sound: dense breather turbulence in random ocean waves

Osborne, A. R.; Resio, Donald T.; Costa, Andrea; León, Sonia Ponce de; Chirivì, Elisabetta

doi:10.1007/s10236-018-1232-y

Cited by 33 publications

(78 citation statements)

References 32 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…Additionally, we compute the nonlinear Benjamin-Feir instability index for wind waves (I BF ) (Equation (8)) [12,13] that estimates the number of rogue wave unstable modes in the nonlinear wave spectrum (it is the integer part of I BF ), based on the application of the theory of the nonlinear Schrödinger NLS equation to random wave trains. In this case, for the WRT hindcast, we obtained a higher I BF (77.6) than for the DIA simulation (71.4), considering a sea state duration of 3 h.…”

Section: A Parameter Study Of the Draupner Stormmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…While the BFI of Janssen is a measure of how peaked the wave spectrum is, the IBF of Osborne is an estimate of the number of breathers trains in the spectrum, where breathers can be seen as pairwise phase-locked Stokes waves for sufficiently steep and narrow-banded wave motion, such that I BF > 1 [13]. From a parametric point of view, it is easy use Equation (8) to estimate I BF , but the reader is forewarned that this value has dubious value in modern wave theories that are not phase resolving.…”

Section: A Parameter Study Of the Draupner Stormmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…One of the important features of these works is that the wave spectrum does not have the traditional shape of the typical JONSWAP shape with cosine squared spreading. To address this issue, [19] analyzed data, based on the ideas of [18], and developed a 2D spectral fitting procedure that was then used by [21] to represent the average spectrum measured in Currituck Sound (see also [13]. We have graphed this average spectrum in Figure 8.…”

Section: On the Shape Of A Two-dimensional Spectrum Based On The Benjmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…A future paper gives details. It is worth noting that any correct theoretical formulation would give spectra higher at the central peak than WRT because phase locking would be taken into account, thus physically giving rise to the presence of large breathers in the spectrum, normally centered about the peak [12,13]. This contribution of Longuet-Higgins is quite important for describing waves governed by the modulational instability, and the cyan regions in Figures 9 and 10 tell us where the waves are modulationally unstable in the spectrum.…”

Section: On the Shape Of A Two-dimensional Spectrum Based On The Benjmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…To this end, the instability of a uniform narrow-banded wave train to sideband perturbations, or the so-called Benjamin-Feir or modulational instability (BFI, [11]), has been studied in recent years by many authors. A number of authors have associated the modulation instability with the occurrence of rogue waves in the ocean: this is because of the spontaneous formation of breather states in nonlinear random wave trains (see [12,13] for a full list of references). Breather states, born of the BFI, are nonlinear packets (nonlinear beats) that can rise to quite high amplitudes (three or four times the background sea state) during their evolution.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 4 more Smart Citations

Role of Nonlinear Four-Wave Interactions Source Term on the Spectral Shape

León

Osborne

2020

JMSE

Self Cite

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

The goal of this paper is to investigate the importance of the four-wave nonlinear interactions (SNL4) on the shape of the power spectrum of ocean waves. To this end, the following results are discussed: a number of authors have conducted modern experimental measurements of ocean waves over the past decades and found that the measured power spectrum has (a) a very high central peak (characterized by the parameter γ, developed in the 1970s in the JONSWAP program) and (b) enhanced high-frequency channels which lead to the phenomenon of “bimodality”, also a well-known phenomenon. We discuss how a numerical hindcast of the Draupner storm (1995) with the standard code WAVEWATCH-III with full Boltzmann interactions also reflects these previously experimentally determined spectral shapes. Our results suggest that the use of the full Boltzmann interactions (as opposed to the discrete interaction approximation often employed for forecasting/hindcasting) is important for obtaining this characteristic physical spectral shape of the power spectrum.

show abstract

Section: A Parameter Study Of the Draupner Stormmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: A Parameter Study Of the Draupner Stormmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: On the Shape Of A Two-dimensional Spectrum Based On The Benjmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: On the Shape Of A Two-dimensional Spectrum Based On The Benjmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 3 more Smart Citations

Role of Nonlinear Four-Wave Interactions Source Term on the Spectral Shape

León

Osborne

2020

JMSE

Self Cite

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

The 1st International Workshop on Waves, Storm Surges and Coastal Hazards incorporating the 15th International Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and Forecasting

et al. 2019

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Following the 1st International Workshop on Waves, Storm Surges and Coastal Hazards, which incorporated the 15th session of the long-standing the International Workshop on Wave Hindcasting and Forecasting, in September 2017 in Liverpool, United Kingdom, a topical collection has appeared in recent issues of Ocean Dynamics. Here, we give a brief overview of the 15 papers published in this topical collection as well as an overview of the widening scope of the conference in recent years. The continuing trend towards closer integration between the wave and ocean modeling communities is reflected in this workshop, culminating in the renaming of the workshop, while maintaining the connection with the three-decade long history of the wave workshop. This is also seen in this topical collection, with several papers exploring wave-generated storm surge, wave-tide contributions to coastal flooding, forcing a global ocean model with fluxes from a wave model and interaction between surface waves and sea ice.

show abstract