The conversion of grape juice to wine starts with complex yeast communities consisting of strains that have colonised the harvested grape and/or reside in the winery environment. As the conditions in the fermenting juice gradually become inhibitory for most species, they are rapidly overgrown by the more adaptable Saccharomyces strains, which then complete the fermentation. However, there are environmental factors that even Saccharomyces cannot cope with. We show that when the sugar content is extremely high, osmotolerant yeasts, usually considered as “spoilage yeasts“, ferment the must. The examination of the yeast biota of 22 botrytised Tokaj Essence wines of sugar concentrations ranging from 365 to 752 g∙L−1 identified the osmotolerant Zygosaccharomyces rouxii, Candida (Starmerella) lactis-condensi and Candida zemplinina (Starmerella bacillaris) as the dominating species. Ten additional species, mostly known as osmotolerant spoilage yeasts or biofilm-producing yeasts, were detected as minor components of the populations. The high phenotypical and molecular (karyotype, mtDNA restriction fragment length polymorphism (RFLP) and microsatellite-primed PCR (MSP-PCR)) diversity of the conspecific strains indicated that diverse clones of the species coexisted in the wines. Genetic segregation of certain clones and interactions (antagonism and crossfeeding) of the species also appeared to shape the fermenting yeast biota.