Identification of aloe and other dyes by means of SERS and HPLC-DAD-MS in the embroidery of a 15th century English folded almanac

Calà, Elisa; Salis, Annalisa; Damonte, Gianluca; Signorello, Stefania; Brenner, Elma; Carey, Jacqui; Aceto, Maurizio

doi:10.1016/j.dyepig.2021.109578

Cited by 13 publications

(6 citation statements)

References 39 publications

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“…20,113 In recent years, the SERS system has been employed to analyse organic dyes in historical textiles without the need for dye extraction. [114][115][116] Alizarin from plants of the Rubiaceae family was identified in historical textiles using SERS in a number of studies. For instance, the monoanionic and dianionic forms of alizarin were identified by the characteristic bands at 1450 and 1425 cm À1 , respectively, on the SERS spectrum of a Coptic textile fibre treated with a silver nanoparticle substrate.…”

Section: Surface-enhanced Raman Spectroscopymentioning

confidence: 99%

“…129 Furthermore, alizarin was detected by Calà et al (at m/z 239) during HPLC-DAD-MS analysis of a fibre sample taken from an English almanac dating from the fifteenth century, alongside purpurin, xanthopurpurin, ruberythric acid, munjistin and lucidin; because of the absence of flavopurpurin and anthrapurpurin, this indicated that the red dye was obtained from Rubia tinctorum L. extract instead of synthetic alizarin. 115,130 In addition, Tamburini et al recognised the peaks corresponding to madder-extracted alizarin ([M-H] À at m/z 239.035) by using an HPLC system coupled with DAD and a quadrupole time-of-flight tandem mass spectrometer (HPLC-DAD-ESI-Q-ToF/MS) while characterising four antique textile artefacts of Pharaonic Egypt (Figure 5D). 131 It was realised that using a mass spectrometer in negative ion mode was preferable for identifying alizarin from historical textiles using an HPLC system, because of the polar properties of anthraquinone-based dyestuffs.…”

Section: High-performance Liquid Chromatographymentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Typically, nanoparticles of gold, silver and copper are chosen to prepare the colloidal metal substrates in the SERS technique, 111,112 and augment the vibrational scattering signals of the probe molecules through excitation of their localised surface plasmon resonances, which occurs when the collective oscillation of valence electrons in the metals is in resonance with the incident light frequency 20,113 . In recent years, the SERS system has been employed to analyse organic dyes in historical textiles without the need for dye extraction 114–116 …”

Section: Identification Of Alizarin In Historical Textilesmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…For instance, the HPLC system was coupled with an ion trap mass spectrometer in a study conducted by Liu et al, resulting in identification of alizarin ([M‐H] − at m/z 239) derived from Rubia tinctorum L. in the dye extracted from an archaeological textile fragment collected in Niya (Xinjiang, China) 129 . Furthermore, alizarin was detected by Calà et al (at m/z 239) during HPLC‐DAD‐MS analysis of a fibre sample taken from an English almanac dating from the fifteenth century, alongside purpurin, xanthopurpurin, ruberythric acid, munjistin and lucidin; because of the absence of flavopurpurin and anthrapurpurin, this indicated that the red dye was obtained from Rubia tinctorum L. extract instead of synthetic alizarin 115,130 . In addition, Tamburini et al recognised the peaks corresponding to madder‐extracted alizarin ([M‐H] − at m/z 239.035) by using an HPLC system coupled with DAD and a quadrupole time‐of‐flight tandem mass spectrometer (HPLC‐DAD‐ESI‐Q‐ToF/MS) while characterising four antique textile artefacts of Pharaonic Egypt (Figure 5D).…”

Section: Identification Of Alizarin In Historical Textilesmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Alizarin old and new: Extraction techniques for coloration, advances in detection methods for historical textiles and novel applications as a functional dye

Mushtaq²,

Zhao

et al. 2023

Coloration Technology

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The current study provides the first review of alizarin, a natural dye, in terms of its historical aspects and its potential for functional applications in textiles. The review begins with a brief overview of natural alizarin and its occurrence in Rubiaceae family plants, followed by a discussion of alizarin acquisition from its botanical sources through conventional and advanced extraction methods. A special emphasis of this study is on the identification of natural alizarin colourants in archaeological and cultural textiles by using analytical methods based on reflectance, Raman spectroscopy, mass spectrometry and chromatographic profiles. In addition, the functional properties of natural alizarin, including its antimicrobial activity, anti‐oxidant activity, insect repellence and ultraviolet protection, are analysed. This paper summarises the methods for obtaining alizarin for coloration, as well as advanced techniques for detecting alizarin in historical textiles, and potential applications of natural alizarin as a functional textile dye.

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Section: Surface-enhanced Raman Spectroscopymentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: High-performance Liquid Chromatographymentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Identification Of Alizarin In Historical Textilesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Identification Of Alizarin In Historical Textilesmentioning

confidence: 99%

See 2 more Smart Citations

Alizarin old and new: Extraction techniques for coloration, advances in detection methods for historical textiles and novel applications as a functional dye

Mushtaq²,

Zhao

et al. 2023

Coloration Technology

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show abstract

“…Further analysis is underway to discern whether this observation should be attributed to the HPLC validation set being small, or to speci c chromophore bands in FORS, as many reports have suggested. 18,22,23,25,[33][34][35][36][37] Experimental…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Identification of Historical Textiles via Non-destructive Spectroscopic Analysis and Multivariate Cluster Analysis

Celani

Degano

Chen

et al. 2023

Preprint

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One of the foremost challenges facing dye analysis of historical textiles is that the gold standard technique – high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) – is inherently destructive, costly, and relatively few institutions have the necessary equipment and expertise. This is especially problematic considering historical samples are unique, sampling is undesirable, and historical textiles can be exceptionally fragile. One proposed solution to this is the implementation of non-destructive, spectroscopic, techniques, such as Fiber Optic Reflectance Spectroscopy (FORS). In this work, 204 well-provenanced red Norwich textiles were measured with FORS and analyzed, aiming to test if the technique would be able to discern the chromophore combinations / recipes used to dye historical textiles. Cluster analysis algorithms and spectroscopic domain knowledge were coupled with selective HPLC validation to assess overall ability of FORS to identify chromophore combinations. The UV/VIS region, particularly 380-469 nm, showed a narrow visible region that was primarily responsible for clustering behavior that correlates with HPLC-validated samples. In contrast, the near infrared (NIR) region of the spectrum contained little meaningful information in multivariate space. This indicates that FORS shows promise for identifying chromophores in textile samples. Suspecting the observed spectral inflection point shift around 600 nm was correlated to the presence of mordants, complementary X-ray fluorescence (XRF) analysis was used, with the corresponding statistical treatment, which showed no correlation. From this work, three main conclusions can be drawn: 1) FORS adequately identifies visual information, which shows reasonable correlation to HPLC-validated dye recipes, warranting further investigation, and indicating utility for confirmatory analysis, and strongly suggesting this is a good tool for persons with visual impairments; 2) XRF analysis confirms that ~600 nm inflection point shift and mordant are not correlated when measuring dyed textiles; 3) many documented structural-to-spectral relationships established in the conservation literature are too weak in dyed textiles for statistical analysis and, by extension, expert spectral identification.

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The Role of Mordants in Fixation of Natural Dyes

Manian

2023

Handbook of Natural Colorants

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Identification of aloe and other dyes by means of SERS and HPLC-DAD-MS in the embroidery of a 15th century English folded almanac

Cited by 13 publications

References 39 publications

Alizarin old and new: Extraction techniques for coloration, advances in detection methods for historical textiles and novel applications as a functional dye

Alizarin old and new: Extraction techniques for coloration, advances in detection methods for historical textiles and novel applications as a functional dye

Identification of Historical Textiles via Non-destructive Spectroscopic Analysis and Multivariate Cluster Analysis

The Role of Mordants in Fixation of Natural Dyes

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