Identification of dyestuffs in historical textiles: Strong and weak points of a non-invasive approach

Non-invasive study of natural dyes on historical textiles from the collection of Michelangelo Guggenheim

“…The whole spectra set exhibited quite low intensities, which could be attributed to ageing and related color fading processes, according to Clementi et al [7], or in other cases to the quite high concentration of colorants, as reported by Gulmini et al [11].…”

“…Table 1 reports a summary of possible combinations of dyes and mordants exhibiting different hues. As a general rule, the visible electromagnetic spectrum provides information related to the electronic transitions of dyeing molecules for colored textiles, and it is therefore the most significant interval for their recognition, whereas distinctive profiles of supporting fibers are mainly recorded in the Near Infra-Red (NIR) range [10,11].…”

“…[13] and to ageing processes [14,15], which can also affect the colorants [7,15]; the use of different dyeing techniques and mordants [11,13,16,17] can also act a very important role in affecting FORS spectra. Table 1 reports a summary of possible combinations of dyes and mordants exhibiting different hues.…”

“…Reflectance Spectroscopy, especially in the FORS configuration, is a well-established technique for the characterization of natural dyes in artworks: many applications were reported for paintings and frescoes [1][2][3], manuscripts [4,5] and fabrics [6][7][8][9][10][11]; this method is becoming a useful analytical tool for conservation scientists in textiles examination, dyes identification, as testified by the very recent paper by MaynezRojas et al, presenting a complete FORS study for the identification of red dyestuff in historical fabrics [12], and to provide preliminary data useful for developing conservation strategies [10,11]. The FORS technique, totally non-destructive and non-invasive, also allows limiting the sampling.…”

Optimal selection of medium or high cost schemes in cleaner production for dyestuff industry based on fuzzy analytic hierarchy process

“…Dyestuff, in a close relationship with human life, has been widely used in textile [1], paints plastics, leather, photoelectric communication, food industry and other fields. However, dyestuff industry, a traditional industry with high pollution and high energy consumption, discharges a large amount of waste water, waste gas and solid wastes [2].…”