Identification of materials in post-Byzantine textiles from Mount Athos

Karapanagiotis, Ioannis; Mantzouris, Dimitrios; Kamaterou, P.; Lampakis, D.; Panayiotou, Costas

doi:10.1016/j.jas.2011.06.022

Cited by 19 publications

(9 citation statements)

References 20 publications

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“…7-left display features referable to those of indigotin already reported by various authors [5,10,11,64,66], so indicating a good conservation state of this colorant: the main reflectance maximum was recorded between 446 and 454 nm, with an absorption band varying between 650 and 660 nm (Table 4) and an inflection point centered between 707 and 723 nm, leading to a sharp reflectance increase in the infrared region [11]. In addition, other less intense spectral features are distinguishable, in particular three reflectance maxima at about 504, 560-570 and 617 nm, and three minima (corresponding to absorption maxima) at 477, 545 and 600 nm, respectively.…”

Section: Blue Huessupporting

confidence: 75%

Non-invasive study of natural dyes on historical textiles from the collection of Michelangelo Guggenheim

Ferri

Tripodi

Martignon

et al. 2018

Spectrochimica Acta Part A: Molecular and Biomolecular Spectros

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a b s t r a c t a r t i c l e i n f oA selection of historical textile fragments from the Venetian art dealer Moisè Michelangelo Guggenheim collection, ranging from XV to XVIII century, has been investigated by means of non-invasive techniques in order to reveal the coloring materials. Imaging was preliminarily used to visually investigate the selected artwork fragments in order to investigate their structure and conservation conditions; Fiber Optics Reflectance Spectroscopy (FORS) allowed recognizing the main natural dyestuffs, such as indigotin and anthraquinones-based compounds, except the yellow ones, difficultly identifiable when using this non-invasive technique. Collected spectroscopic data have been also elaborated by using a clustering algorithm that permitted to group collected spectra on the basis of similar properties and evidencing their inflection point wavelength as the most influencing feature.

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Section: Blue Huessupporting

confidence: 75%

Non-invasive study of natural dyes on historical textiles from the collection of Michelangelo Guggenheim

Ferri

Tripodi

Martignon

et al. 2018

Spectrochimica Acta Part A: Molecular and Biomolecular Spectros

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“…The dyestuffs found in the green swatches are overall consistent. Identification of indigotin agrees with historical research, which suggests that shades of green were achieved by first dyeing the wool with indigo or woad to create a blue ground and then dyeing again using yellow dyes like weld [32.] A study by Karapanagiotis of Greek garments dating from early eighteenth century supports this method [58,61]. Interestingly, weld was not present in any of the green samples we tested.…”

Section: Greenssupporting

confidence: 55%

Multi-instrumental approach with archival research to study the Norwich textile industry in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries: the example of a Norwich pattern book dated c. 1790–1793

Alcántara-García

Nix

2018

Herit Sci

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Merchant-manufacturers in Norwich, a major centre for textile production in England, used pattern books and pattern cards containing swatches of worsted and worsted mixed with other yarns to facilitate sales and trade. Studying such well-preserved and dated materials provides valuable information that can translate into informed decisions for the care of Norwich textile collections. Using a Norwich pattern book from Winterthur Museum's Special Collections dated c. 1790-1793, we report the first stage of a substantial study that combines spectroscopic and chromatographic techniques with archival research. A combination of X-ray fluorescence (XRF), high performance liquid chromatography-photodiode array (HPLC-PDA) and scanning electron microscopy-energy dispersive X-ray spectroscopy (SEM-EDX) allowed for identification of characteristic mordants like iron and tin salts; and dyes, like quercitron, native to North America. In addition, a combination of Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) and gas chromatography-mass spectrometry (GC-MS) allowed for partial identification of the glazed finish in some textiles as a natural gum. Setting the foundations for future conservation and conservation science work, our research contributes to the care of these important and beautiful textiles, by providing scientific evidence for humidity and/or light sensitive constituent materials.

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“…Their presence in analyzed textiles (pre-Columbian [ 13 , 14 ] as well as Renaissance and later European ones [ 9 , 15 – 17 ]) provides the basis for identifying American cochineal. The studies were carried out using HPLC–UV-vis [ 13 , 18 ] and HPLC–UV-vis–MS [ 9 , 14 – 16 , 19 ]. However, the structures of the minor colorants observed in American cochineal have been unambiguously identified only relatively recently [ 17 ]; information obtained from nuclear magnetic resonance (NMR) experiments has shown that dcII is 7- C -α- D -glucopyranoside of flavokermesic acid, dcIV is 7- C -α- D -glucofuranoside of kermesic acid, and dcVII is 7- C -β- D -glucofuranoside.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Identification of unknown colorants in pre-Columbian textiles dyed with American cochineal (Dactylopius coccus Costa) using high-performance liquid chromatography and tandem mass spectrometry

et al. 2014

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The present study concerns the identification of nine thus-far unknown derivatives of carminic acid extracted from pre-Columbian Peruvian textiles dyed with American cochineal—these derivatives are not found in commercially available preparations of the dye. These compounds probably represent a unique fingerprint of dyed textiles from this region, as they have never been reported to occur in other fabrics of historical value. They were separated by reversed-phase high-performance liquid chromatography (phenyl column) and detected using a UV/vis spectrophotometer and two tandem mass spectrometers. Peaks observed in chromatograms registered at 450 and 500 nm were further identified by ESI QqQ MS (mainly in the negative ion mode), supported by high-resolution ESI QIT/ToF MS data. The characteristic fragmentation pathways of isolated carminic acid and its derivatives provided additional information concerning lost neutrals and thus the functional groups and substituents present in the parent molecules. This information mainly related to multiple cleavages of the hexoside moiety (initially cross-ring cleavage), which are characteristic of C-glucosides (loss of 90, 120, and 148 Da). This is accompanied by the elimination of H2O as well as the further loss of 60 Da from the hexoside moiety. Moreover, other losses from the carbonyl groups (44 Da from CO2 loss, 62 Da from ethylene glycol loss, 32 Da from O2 loss, 138 Da from hydroxybenzoic acid, and 120 Da from oxomethylene cyclohexadienone) provided more specific information about structures of the identified derivatives of carminic acid.

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Identification of materials in post-Byzantine textiles from Mount Athos

Cited by 19 publications

References 20 publications

Non-invasive study of natural dyes on historical textiles from the collection of Michelangelo Guggenheim

Non-invasive study of natural dyes on historical textiles from the collection of Michelangelo Guggenheim

Multi-instrumental approach with archival research to study the Norwich textile industry in the late eighteenth and early nineteenth centuries: the example of a Norwich pattern book dated c. 1790–1793

Identification of unknown colorants in pre-Columbian textiles dyed with American cochineal (Dactylopius coccus Costa) using high-performance liquid chromatography and tandem mass spectrometry

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