“…Larger depths ratio (i.e., downstream to upstream depths) were used for instance in Arnason [6] or in Hartana and Murakami [21] but the maximal pressure generated on the obstacle is always less than 5 ρgh which is the typical values for bore impacts. More recently, Zuo et al [59] employed a Large Eddy Simulation mesh-free incompressible model to study the impact of violent plunging breakers generated by large upstream to downstream water depth ratios. Relative pressure values p/ρgH (with H upstream water depth) of the order of 2 to 5 were obtained.…”