In vitro Screening of Subtropical Plants Cultivated in Jeju Island for Cosmetic Ingredients

Abstract

To identify novel cosmetic ingredients from subtropical plants, we screened 21 parts of 12 plant species collected from the Agricultural Research Institute for Climate located in Jeju Island, the southernmost island of the Korean Peninsula. Subtropical plants were investigated for their total polyphenolic content by using the Folin-Ciocalteu reagent with gallic acid as the standard as well as 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2'-azino-bis(3-ethylbenzothiazoline-6-sulphonic acid (ABTS) scavenging activities. In both the DPPH and the ABTS assays, three plants, Syzygium samarangense, Acca sellowiana (leaves and branches), and Olea europaea (branches) showed significantly greater scavenging activity [half-maximal inhibitory concentration (IC 50 ) < 50 µg/mL] than the other plants did. The leaves and branches of S. samarangense also had the highest total phenolic content (153.7 and 160.6 mg gallic acid equivalent [GAE]/g DW, respectively). However, the subtropical plants in this study showed lower elastase and tyrosinase inhibition activities than the positive controls oleanolic acid and arbutin (95.0 and 86.5 µg/mL, respectively) did. Furthermore, we sought to investigate the anti-inflammatory effects of these subtropical plants for potential use in topical applications to treat skin inflammation. Therefore, they were screened for inhibitory effects on the proinflammatory mediator, nitric oxide (NO) in lipopolysaccharide (LPS)-stimulated macrophage RAW 264.7 cells. Our results revealed that S. samarangense leaves potently inhibited the LPS-stimulated NO production concentration-dependently with an IC 50 of 154.3 µg/mL. These results suggest that these subtropical plants possess several biological activities that may be potent inhibitors of the skin aging and inflammatory processes. Further investigations will focus on cell-based in vitro assays and chemically identifying the major active components mediating the anti-aging and anti-inflammation.

In vitro screening of elastase, collagenase, hyaluronidase, and tyrosinase inhibitory and antioxidant activities of 22 halophyte plant extracts for novel cosmeceuticals

“…Notably, in the investigation of Lee et al, R. rugosa (HP. 13) was found to provide a strong DPPH scavenging activity, and another study by Zheng et al also indicated that R. rugosa possessed the most powerful antioxidant potential evaluated by DPPH and ABTS assays among 65 edible flowers (Kim et al 2016;Zheng et al 2018). Moreover, there have been few investigations referring to the antioxidant activities of S. komarovii, A. princeps, and R. rugosa (Carvalho et al 2011;Kim et al 2018;Lee et al 2012;Youwei and Yonghong 2007).…”

“…Regarding the successful tolerance in hostile conditions, for example, salinity, UV radiation, and extreme temperature, HP is believed to allow valuable secondary metabolites including polyphenol, carotenoid, and vitamins to cope with those stress-overwhelmed environments (Jdey et al 2017). It is also suggested that HP may offer a great unexplored source of bioactivity for the medicine or cosmetic development with economic benefit (Kim et al 2016). In our present study, 22 HPs harvested along the coast of South Korea were screened and evaluated whether to provide antioxidant, anti-aging, as well as whitening potentials for cosmeceutical applications.…”

“…peroxide scavenging assays (Table 2). DPPH is a relatively stable free radical compound which allows a short and simple method of screening anti-radical or hydrogen donor capacity of the suspicious unknown (Kim et al 2016;Lee et al 2004). Meanwhile, hydrogen peroxide is an unstable substance which can be provoked from almost all of the various oxidative stressors.…”

“…Skin aging can be identified into intrinsic and extrinsic aging processes; intrinsic aging is an inevitable process or natural aging undergone by the passage of time (Thring et al 2009), whereas extrinsic aging is an event resulting from the exposure to external factors, predominantly by ultraviolet (UV) radiation known as photoaging (Yang et al 2016). Solar radiation, or UV radiation, is the major stimulator that accelerates the overproduction of reactive oxygen species (ROS) which leads the endogenous oxidative stress in the epidermis (Kim et al 2016). Moreover, the excess oxidative stress is so harmful that it induces unhealthy and aging skin contributing as wrinkle, roughness, dryness, elasticity loss, and uneven pigmentation due to the degradation of extracellular matrix (ECM) (Horng et al 2017).…”

Untitled

“…Tyrosinase expression and activation play an essential role in melanin production. Although melanin protects the skin against UV injury under normal physiological conditions, abnormal pigmentation such as freckles and age spots often causes serious skin problems and esthetic issues 25 . A few known natural tyrosinase inhibitors of melanin synthesis including adenosine, arbutin, niacinamide, and kojic acid are currently used as cosmetic and medicinal ingredients in preparations applied for the treatment of hyperpigmentation.…”