In vivo optical investigation of short term skin water contact and moisturizer application using NIR spectroscopy

Qassem, Meha; Kyriacou, Panayiotis A.

doi:10.1109/embc.2013.6610020

Cited by 11 publications

(8 citation statements)

References 13 publications

Supporting

Mentioning

Contrasting

Order By: Relevance

“…[20][21][22][23] Results from this experiment will be used in conjunction with our previous work [24][25][26] to aid the future design and development of a portable NIR spectroscopic device that would allow accurate, fast, and noninvasive in vivo measurements of skin hydration and water content.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Use of reflectance near-infrared spectroscopy to investigate the effects of daily moisturizer application on skin optical response and barrier function

Qassem

Kyriacou

2014

J. Biomed. Opt

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Citation: Qassem, M. & Kyriacou, P. A. (2014). Use of reflectance near-infrared spectroscopy to investigate the effects of daily moisturizer application on skin optical response and barrier function. Journal of Biomedical Optics, 19(8), 087007. doi: 10.1117/1. JBO.19.8.087007 This is the accepted version of the paper.This version of the publication may differ from the final published version. Abstract. A number of noninvasive techniques and instruments have emerged over the years allowing much progress toward clarifying the structure and function of human skin and studying the effects of various applied substances. All of this research has provided great insight into the interactions between skin and various products through quantitative and qualitative measurements. Such methods include near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS), a technique which has gained popularity over the years and has often been employed to accurately determine the moisture levels and water content of skin based on its sensitivity to hydrogen bonding. NIRS has also been applied in many studies to report the efficacy of moisturizing products and assess their benefits to the skin. However, many of these studies have reported an increase in skin water content following moisturizer application while some have challenged the benefits of long-term moisturizer use, particularly on normal skin, and even suggested that it can increase the skin's susceptibility to irritants. This paper reports the results of a pilot in vivo study carried out on the skin of 20 healthy volunteers, categorized into groups depending on their skin type and frequency of moisturizer use, in order to investigate the optical response of human skin after direct short-term contact with water followed by application of a moisturizer. The measurements were obtained using a highly advanced spectrophotometer in the region of 900 to 2100 nm equipped with a customized reflectance fiber optic handheld probe. Scatter graphs of group results and second derivative spectra have shown an interesting pattern between frequent users of moisturizers and individuals who do not use moisturizers, suggesting that long-term daily moisturization may have an effect on skin barrier function. The results also raise some questions regarding the optical characteristics of different skin types, as well as the varying response between different water bands in the NIR region. Future work will focus on gaining more knowledge about these subjects and obtaining results from a larger population, as well as performing statistical analysis through regression methods in order to further improve optical skin measurements. Permanent

show abstract

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Use of reflectance near-infrared spectroscopy to investigate the effects of daily moisturizer application on skin optical response and barrier function

Qassem

Kyriacou

2014

J. Biomed. Opt

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

show abstract

“…Finally, a series of studies by Qassem et al [250][251][252][253] combined NIR data with both PCR and PLS techniques and found clear spectral differences associated with frequency of moisturiser use ( Figure 6), and highlighted the possibility of using this technique to detect changes in barrier function by measuring water penetration after wet patch testing. The authors suggested that NIR spectroscopy can provide comprehensive skin analysis in a fast and simple manner.…”

Section: Near Infrared Spectroscopymentioning

confidence: 99%

Review of Modern Techniques for the Assessment of Skin Hydration

Qassem

Kyriacou

2019

Cosmetics

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

Skin hydration is a complex process that influences the physical and mechanical properties of skin. Various technologies have emerged over the years to assess this parameter, with the current standard being electrical probe-based instruments. Nevertheless, their inability to provide detailed information has prompted the use of sophisticated spectroscopic and imaging methodologies, which are capable of in-depth skin analysis that includes structural and composition details. Modern imaging and spectroscopic techniques have transformed skin research in the dermatological and cosmetics disciplines, and are now commonly employed in conjunction with traditional methods for comprehensive assessment of both healthy and pathological skin. This article reviews current techniques employed in measuring skin hydration, and gives an account on their principle of operation and applications in skin-related research.

show abstract

“…Water content of the stratum corneum provides elasticity and softness to skin surface (Crowther, 2016;Qassem & Kyriacou, 2013;Wu & Polefka, 2008). Usually, emollient concentration in skin carecreams/emulsions is present in the range of 3-20% wt/wt (Gorcea & Laura, 2010;Savary, Grisel, & Picard, 2013).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Impact of different emollient esters on body emulsions: Sensory, physicochemical, and biometrological characterization

Fabbron-Appas

Pandey

Parekh

et al. 2021

Journal of Sensory Studies

View full text Add to dashboard Cite

A range of liquid emollient ester-loaded body emulsions were evaluated on the basis of sensory profile, consumer perception, physicochemical, biometrological, and rheological performances. This was complemented by skin hydration and transepidermal water loss (TEWL) studies performed using a Corneometer ® and Tewameter ® , respectively. The rheological studies showed similar behavior of creams on variation of shear stress, frequency, and temperature. However, skin hydration performances of creams were found varied when compared between base cream and emollient ester-containing creams. In case of the TEWL study, base cream (F1, no ester) and octyl palmitate-containing cream (F2), exhibited the most protective behavior for the skin with minimal water loss. Sensory profiles of creams were obtained using the sensory descriptive analysis method. A study performed with human consumers (as subjects) using the difference of test attributes (directional) method showed the importance of sensory evaluation with consumers and proved to be an interesting analysis for comparison with the sensorial profile. In this case, the attributes with the highest intensity in the evaluated creams were, that is, spreadability, slipping, and dry touch. Stability studies of creams were performed for 90 days under different storage conditions. Stability studies showed octyl stearate-containing (F2) and palmitate-containing (F5) creams exhibited best stability under extended storage conditions. This research has demonstrated the importance of physicochemical characterization and sensory evaluations performed with consumers for more targeted analysis of cream-based formulations to differentiate product characteristics and identify attributes-led preferences. Practical applicationsResults from the present work suggest that emollients are directly responsible for sensory characteristics such as spreading, absorption, and touch on the skin; they can influence the viscosity and appearance of emulsions. After application on the skin, they regulate the moisture content of the epidermis together with the humectants. This research has demonstrated the importance of sensory evaluation, especially performed with consumers, which may be considered a more targeted analysis to differentiate product characteristics and help in the choice of emollient with the desired characteristics for the cosmetic product.

show abstract

In vivo optical investigation of short term skin water contact and moisturizer application using NIR spectroscopy

Cited by 11 publications

References 13 publications

Use of reflectance near-infrared spectroscopy to investigate the effects of daily moisturizer application on skin optical response and barrier function

Use of reflectance near-infrared spectroscopy to investigate the effects of daily moisturizer application on skin optical response and barrier function

Review of Modern Techniques for the Assessment of Skin Hydration

Impact of different emollient esters on body emulsions: Sensory, physicochemical, and biometrological characterization

Contact Info

Product

Resources

About