Incidence, Diagnosis, and Management of Injury in Sport Climbing and Bouldering: A Critical Review

Jones, Gareth; Schöffl, Volker; Johnson, Mark I.

doi:10.1249/jsr.0000000000000534

Cited by 37 publications

(30 citation statements)

References 24 publications

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“…The emergence of climbing as a competitive discipline has generated research interest. Studies have mainly examined motivational and risk-taking profiles (e.g., Martha et al, 2009; Jones et al, 2017), physiological aspects (e.g., Espanña-Romero et al, 2012), biomechanical properties (e.g., Vigouroux et al, 2011), and injuries (e.g., Jones et al, 2018). Notwithstanding previous work, researchers frequently discuss that variables of a psychological nature such as problem-solving ability, movement sequence recall, route finding skills, anxiety levels and stress management may be better predictors of optimal physical climbing performance than physiological or biomechanical variables (e.g., Sheel, 2004; Watts, 2004; Giles et al, 2006; MacLeod et al, 2007; Morrison and Schöffl, 2007; Jones and Sanchez, 2017).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Identification of Parameters That Predict Sport Climbing Performance

et al. 2019

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In recent years, extreme sport-related pursuits including climbing have emerged not only as recreational activities but as competitive sports. Today, sport climbing is a rapidly developing, competitive sport included in the 2020 Olympic Games official program. Given recent developments, the understanding of which factors may influence actual climbing performance becomes critical. The present study aimed at identifying key performance parameters as perceived by experts in predicting actual lead sport climbing performance. Ten male ( M age = 28, SD = 6.6 years) expert climbers (7a+ to 8b on-sight French Rating Scale of Difficulty), who were also registered as climbing coaches, participated in semi-structured interviews. Participants’ responses were subjected to inductive-deductive content analysis. Several performance parameters were identified: passing cruxes, strength and conditioning aspects, interaction with the environment, possessing a good climbing movement repertoire, risk management, route management, mental balance, peer communication, and route preview. Route previewing emerged as critical when it comes to preparing and planning ascents, both cognitively and physically. That is, when optimizing decision making in relation to progressing on the route (ascent strategy forecasting) and when enhancing strategic management in relation to the effort exerted on the route (ascent effort forecasting). Participants described how such planning for the ascent allows them to: select an accurate and comprehensive movement repertoire relative to the specific demands of the route and reject ineffective movements; optimize effective movements; and link different movements upward. As the sport of climbing continues to develop, our findings provide a basis for further research that shall examine further how, each of these performance parameters identified, can most effectively be enhanced and optimized to influence performance positively. In addition, the present study provides a comprehensive view of parameters to consider when planning, designing and delivering holistic and coherent training programs aimed at enhancing climbing performance.

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Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Identification of Parameters That Predict Sport Climbing Performance

et al. 2019

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“…Up-to-date knowledge of climbing injuries and climbers’ views on seeking healthcare is needed to ensure that climbers with an injury are assessed properly and given the help needed to recover. However, most of the research on climbing-related injuries combine acute injuries and chronic injuries,9–12 and knowledge of climbers’ beliefs about the value of healthcare is scarce 12. Although most people engaged in sports operate at moderate levels of intensity, most of the research on the use of sports medicine is based on studies assessing team sports and elite-level subjects 13 14…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

No pain no gain: a survey of use of healthcare and reasons not to seek healthcare by Norwegian climbers with chronic injuries

Grønhaug

Sæterbakken

2019

BMJ Open Sport Exerc Med

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ObjectivesTo assess the use of healthcare, and reasons not to seek healthcare, by climbers with a chronic injury.MethodRetrospective survey.SettingWeb-based questionnaire.Participants667 active climbers (385 with chronic injuries).Outcome measureUse of healthcare (including reasons not to seek healthcare if the patient was not attended by health professionals), performance level in sport climbing, onset of a climbing-related injury, site of injury, preferred style of climbing and gender differences.ResultOf the 667 respondents, 385 had experienced a chronic injury in the past 6 months. Climbers with a chronic injury are reluctant to seek healthcare, and male climbers are less likely to seek healthcare than female climbers. The two most frequent reasons not to seek healthcare were: (1) an assumption that the injury was not serious enough (70%) and (2) a belief that a health professional could not help (60%). Only one in five of the climbers with a finger injury sought healthcare. The more experienced climbers were less likely to seek healthcare than recreational climbers.ConclusionUse of healthcare among climbers with a chronic injury is limited and injured climbers self-assess the injury before seeking medical aid. Experience is a strong predictor for not seeking healthcare after an injury. These findings open up the possibility that some of those who do not seek healthcare after self-assessing the injury are underestimating the seriousness of the injury due to lack of confidence in the health professionals’ abilities to help treating chronic climbing related injuries.

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“…The incidence of injuries affecting the lower limbs in sport climbing and bouldering has grown steadily in recent years. 23 The change in injury distribution is not known for certain, but increased participation in bouldering may have affected the incidence. 17,23 Bouldering, a derivative of rock climbing, has seen rising participation levels in the past decade.…”

Section: Diagnosismentioning

confidence: 99%

“…23 The change in injury distribution is not known for certain, but increased participation in bouldering may have affected the incidence. 17,23 Bouldering, a derivative of rock climbing, has seen rising participation levels in the past decade. 24 A bouldering problem is a sequence of difficult moves without the use of ropes or gear for protection.…”

Section: Diagnosismentioning

confidence: 99%

Acute Hamstring Muscle Tears in Climbers—Current Rehabilitation Concepts

Ehiogu

Stephens

Jones

et al. 2020

Wilderness & Environmental Medicine

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Acute hamstring injuries are often caused by the heel hook technique. This technique is unique to climbing and causes injury to muscular and inert tissues of the posterior thigh. The heel hook is used by climbers during strenuous ascent on overhanging walls and when crossing difficult terrain. The technique reduces the amount of upper body strength required during strenuous climbing because the climber's center of mass is retained within the base of support. The heel hook is stressful collectively for the hamstring muscle group and musculotendinous junction. Depending on injury severity, both conservative and surgical methods exist for the management of hamstring injuries. Contemporary approaches to rehabilitation primarily advocate the use of eccentric muscle strengthening strategies because of high rates of elongation stress associated with sprinting and team sports. However, there is reason to doubt whether this alone is sufficient to rehabilitate the climbing athlete in light of the high degree of concentric muscle strength required in the heel hook maneuver. This review examines the contemporary rehabilitation and strength and conditioning literature in relation to the management of acute hamstring musculotendinous injuries for the climbing athlete. The review provides a comprehensive approach for the rehabilitation and athletic preparation of the climbing athlete from the initial injury to full return to sports participation.

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Incidence, Diagnosis, and Management of Injury in Sport Climbing and Bouldering: A Critical Review

Cited by 37 publications

References 24 publications

Identification of Parameters That Predict Sport Climbing Performance

Identification of Parameters That Predict Sport Climbing Performance

No pain no gain: a survey of use of healthcare and reasons not to seek healthcare by Norwegian climbers with chronic injuries

Acute Hamstring Muscle Tears in Climbers—Current Rehabilitation Concepts

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