Individual Wave Analysis of Irregular Wave Deformation in the Nearshore Zone

Mizuguchi, Masaru

doi:10.1061/9780872623736.032

Cited by 17 publications

(12 citation statements)

References 14 publications

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“…The results obtained in Table 1 show peculiar behaviors of the wave transformation in the surf zone. As reported by Mizuguchi (1982a) the individual waves propagate independently in its literal sense in a normal circumstance, snowing almost no change of the wave period distribution. However this results shows a considerable change of the wave period in the surf zone, being affected by the standing waves of significant magnitude.…”

Section: Analysis Of the Datamentioning

confidence: 52%

“…However the long period fluctuation in the swash is significant as reported in many field experiments. The individual wave analysis clearly fails to be meaningful when the long period fluctuation exists, unless it is removed before the analysis is applied (Mizuguchi, 1982a).…”

Section: A Model For Irregular Wave Swashmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…3. Zero-down crossing method is applied with a band width of 1 cm for the mean water level (Mizuguchi, 1982a).…”

Section: Analysis Of the Datamentioning

confidence: 99%

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Swash on a Natural Beach

Mizuguchi

1984

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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A field measurement was conducted in order to clarify the swash motion on a natural beach. It is found on this particular beach, which had a rather steep foreshore slope, that cross spectra calculated between the surface elevations, onshore velocities and the swash agree very well with those given by linear long two-dimensional standing wave theory in the lower frequency region than a certain value. This finding together with the observed f~ (f; frequency) high frequency saturation in swash spectra encourages a partial reflection model to describe the fluid motion in the inner surf zone, including the swash. The model developed shows a good agreement with the observed results, in which being employed an analogy to regular waves for the criticality of wave reflection. This model makes it possible to predict the swash spectrum for a given incident wave spectra and a given beach profile, as far as wave breaking takes place on a foreshore slope.

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Section: Analysis Of the Datamentioning

confidence: 52%

Section: A Model For Irregular Wave Swashmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Swash on a Natural Beach

Mizuguchi

1984

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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“…The basic assumptions inherent in this approach are that the wave-wave interaction is negligible and the scale of the surf zone system response time is the same as that of the individual wave period. Most models using the wave-by-wave approach have shown good agreement with observations (Mase and Iwagaki, 1982;Mizuguchi, 1982;Dally and Dean, 1986;Dally, 1992;Van Rijn and Wijnberg, 1996;Grasmeijer and Ruessink, 2003). Nevertheless, some researchers also found that the wave-by-wave approach does not outperform the spectral approach in predicting some hydrodynamic quantities such as the wave heights and currents (Grasmeijer and Ruessink, 2003).…”

Section: Approaches To Represent Wave Randomnessmentioning

confidence: 76%

On the Choice of Random Wave Simulation in the Surf Zone Processes

Yuan

Madsen

2011

Int. Conf. Coastal. Eng.

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In this paper, the two common approaches to account for wave randomness, the spectral approach and the wave-bywave approach, are compared through numerical experiments conducted with the coupling of a surf zone hydrodynamic model and a bedload sediment transport model. Special attention is paid to the wave nonlinearity and net cross-shore bedload transport predictions. The two approaches are found to have negligible difference in their predictions of certain average hydrodynamics, such as wave heights, set-up and undertow. However, the wave-bywave approach outperforms the spectral approach in the wave nonlinearity prediction, and the two approaches differ significantly in their predictions of wave-induced net cross-shore bedload transport which strongly depends on wave nonlinearity. This suggests the necessity of using the wave-by-wave approach. The computational efficiency of the wave-by-wave approach is also discussed.

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“…Several models have been proposed based on this approach, differing mainly in the regular wave model used to simulate the propagation of the individual waves [e.g. the models of Mase and Iwagaki, 1982;Mizuguchi, 1982;Dally, 1992;Kuriyama, 1996;Goda, 2004]. This approach is particularly useful if a detailed wave height distribution is required.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%