The richness and abundance of sand fly species were studied in northeastern Brazil in areas of leishmaniasis transmission. The study was carried out in two forest areas with different deforestation times for agricultural and livestock activities: one modified by long‐term settlement (more than 50 years of occupation) and another less impacted by short‐term settlement (10 years). The sand flies were captured with CDC light traps from 18:00 to 06:00 for three consecutive nights, once a month, from May, 2012 to April, 2014. The study captured 21,708 specimens and also 33 species of Lutzomyia and two of Brumptomyia. Species richness and abundance were higher in the more conserved area of short‐term occupation (31 species; 61.7%) than in the more degraded area with long‐term occupation (17 species; 38.3%). In the most conserved area, the species richness was higher in the forest fragment than in the rural settlement, whereas in the degraded area the richness was higher in the peri‐domicile than in the forest. The diversity was higher in the degraded area forest. There were significant statistical differences when comparing the means of total abundance with the intra‐domicile, peri‐domicile, and forest environments. The average abundance was statistically higher in the peri‐domicile compared to the forest (p = 0.009), but there were no statistically significant differences between intra‐domicile‐peri‐domicile (p = 0.11) and forest‐intra‐domicile (p = 0.87). In conclusion, a change in vegetation cover negatively affects the richness and abundance of sand flies in the natural environment.