Influence of Wave Climate and Tidal Regime on Headland Bypassing - Study Case: Northern São Francisco Do Sul Island, Sc, Brazil

Costa, Wagner L.L.; Silveira, Lucas Ferreira da; Klein, Antonio H. F.

doi:10.1142/9789811204487_0044

Cited by 5 publications

(7 citation statements)

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“…Prior studies on headland bypassing that consider wave and tidal forcing have established that bypassing is generally a wave‐dominated process (George et al., 2019; McCarroll et al., 2018; Valiente et al., 2020; Vieira da Silva et al., 2018); however, the nonlinear effects between waves and tidal forcing can be a major contributor to headland bypassing rates (Costa et al., 2019; Klein et al., 2020; McCarroll et al., 2018; Valiente, Masselink, et al., 2019). Results presented here suggest that, in macrotidal environments, bypassing during energetic events (deep water H s ≥ 6 m) is wave‐dominated; however, during median wave events (deep water H s = 2 m) bypassing rates are dominated by nonlinear wave‐current interactions between waves and tidal velocities, with waves enhancing bypassing in the tidal direction and activation of sand transport when tide‐only bypassing is negligible.…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Costa et al. (2019) indicate nonlinear interaction between waves and tides can increase bypassing by an order of magnitude relative to tides‐alone. A recent review of the major controls on headland bypassing is given by Klein et al.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Additionally, while waves are the primary driver of headland sand bypassing based on observation and modeling studies (George et al, 2019;Goodwin et al, 2013;McCarroll et al, 2018;Vieira da Silva et al, 2018), tidal elevations and tidal currents play a secondary role (McCarroll et al, 2018(McCarroll et al, , 2021. Costa et al (2019) indicate nonlinear interaction between waves and tides can increase bypassing by an order of magnitude relative to tides-alone. A recent review of the major controls on headland bypassing is given by Klein et al (2020).…”

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confidence: 99%

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Wave, Tide and Topographical Controls on Headland Sand Bypassing

et al. 2021

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Embayed beaches separated by irregular rocky headlands represent 50% of global shorelines. Quantification of inputs and outflows via headland bypassing is necessary for evaluating long‐term coastal change. Bypassing rates are predictable for idealized headland morphologies; however, it remains to test the predictability for realistic morphologies, and to quantify the influence of variable morphology, sediment availability, tides and waves‐tide interactions. Here we show that headland bypassing rates can be predicted for wave‐dominated conditions, and depend upon headland cross‐shore length normalised by surf zone width, headland toe depth and spatial sediment coverage. Numerically modeled bypassing rates are quantified for 29 headlands under variable wave, tide and sediment conditions along 75 km of macrotidal, embayed coast. Bypassing is predominantly wave‐driven and nearly ubiquitous under energetic waves. Tidal elevations modulate bypassing rates, with greatest impact at lower wave energies. Tidal currents mainly influence bypassing through wave‐current interactions, which can dominate bypassing in median wave conditions. Limited sand availability off the headland apex can reduce bypassing by an order of magnitude. Bypassing rates are minimal when cross‐shore length >5 surf zone widths. Headland toe depth is an important secondary control, moderating wave impacts off the headland apex. Parameterisations were tested against modeled bypassing rates, and new terms are proposed to include headland toe depth and sand coverage. Wave‐forced bypassing rates are predicted with mean absolute error of a factor 4.6. This work demonstrates wave‐dominated headland bypassing is amenable to parameterization and highlights the extent to which headland bypassing occurs with implications for embayed coasts worldwide.

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Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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confidence: 99%

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Wave, Tide and Topographical Controls on Headland Sand Bypassing

et al. 2021

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“…Additionally, while waves are the primary driver of headland sand bypassing based on observation and modelling studies (Goodwin et al, 2013;Vieira da Silva et al, 2018;McCarroll et al, 2018;George et al, 2019), tidal elevations and tidal currents play a secondary role (McCarroll et al, 2018(McCarroll et al, , 2021. Costa et al (2019) indicate non-linear interaction between waves and tides can increase bypassing by an order of magnitude relative to tides-alone. A recent review of the major controls on headland bypassing is given by Klein et al (2020).…”

Section: Accepted Articlementioning

confidence: 99%

“…Prior studies on headland bypassing that consider wave and tidal forcing have established that bypassing is generally a wave-dominated process (George et al, 2019;McCarroll et al, 2018;Valiente et al, 2020;Vieira da Silva et al, 2018); however, the non-linear effects between waves and tidal forcing can be a major contributor to headland bypassing rates (Costa et al, 2019;Klein et al, 2020;McCarroll et al, 2018;Valiente et al, 2019a). Results presented here suggest that, in macrotidal environments, bypassing during energetic events (deep water Hs ≥ 6 m) is wave-dominated; however, during median wave events (deep water Hs = 2 m) bypassing rates are dominated by non-linear wavecurrent interactions between waves and tidal velocities, with waves enhancing bypassing in the tidal direction and activation of sand transport when tide-only bypassing is negligible.…”

Section: Headland Bypassing On Embayed Coastlinesmentioning

confidence: 99%