Injuries in Bouldering: A Prospective Study

Josephsen, Gary; Shinneman, Scott; Tamayo-Sarver, Joshua H.; K, Josephsen; Boulware, David R.; Hunt, Matthew; Pham, Hoai D.

doi:10.1580/06-weme-or-071r1.1

Cited by 73 publications

(131 citation statements)

References 23 publications

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“…Incidence proportion refers to the probability of an athlete sustaining at least one injury and is calculated by the number of injured athletes divided by the number of athletes at risk (13). In their systematic review Woollings, McKay and Emery (36) injuries/100 participants/year for outdoor and indoor bouldering respectively (11). Our search of the literature failed to find any additional primary studies.…”

Section: Clinical Incidencementioning

confidence: 92%

“…Studies that have estimated the reported prevalence of injuries associated with rock climbing vary between 10% and 81% irrespective of cause; between 10% and 50% for impact injuries (9,11,17,37); between 28% and 81% for non-impact acute trauma injuries (9,11,18); and between 33% to 44% for chronic overuse injuries (1,9,37,38). Variance is likely to be 6 associated with differences in the nature, operational level of performance, frequency of performance and duration of activity between climbing disciplines.…”

Section: Prevalence and Incidence Of Injuriesmentioning

confidence: 99%

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A Critical Review of the Incidence and Risk Factors for Finger Injuries in Rock Climbing

Jones

Johnson

2016

Curr Sports Med Rep

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Rock climbing is a popular sporting activity and indoor sport climbing has been accepted for inclusion in the 2020 Olympic Games. The aim of this article is to critically review research on the incidence and risk factors associated with injuries during rock climbing. A semisystematic approach in reviewing literature on incidence and prevalence was applied. Articles were identified after searches of the following electronic databases: Discover, Academic Search Complete (EBSCO), PubMed, Embase, SPORTDiscus, and ScienceDirect. Despite methodological shortcomings of the studies contained within the review, the frequency of climbing-related injuries is high and can be challenging to diagnose. The fingers are the most common site of injury with previous injury a significant risk factor for reinjury. The annular pulleys of the fingers are the most commonly injured structure and evidence suggests epiphyseal fractures in adolescent sport climbers is increasing. A diagnostic and therapeutic algorithm for climbing-related finger injuries is proposed.

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Section: Clinical Incidencementioning

confidence: 92%

Section: Prevalence and Incidence Of Injuriesmentioning

confidence: 99%

A Critical Review of the Incidence and Risk Factors for Finger Injuries in Rock Climbing

Jones

Johnson

2016

Curr Sports Med Rep

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“…Activities such as bouldering are, of course, not without their dangers (Josephsen et al, 2007;Woolings et al, 2015). From a legal perspective, the courts have previously considered whether those who put themselves deliberately at risk should be able to seek compensation.…”

Section: Risk and Lifestyle Sportmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…A typical safety measure is the use of a specialised portable pad in order to reduce the prevalence and extent of injuries from falls, which is placed underneath the area the climber is working in. Occasionally, a spotter is used who stands below the climber with arms at the ready to redirect the climber if they fall onto the mat, a technique that helps to prevent direct blows to the climber's head or back, thus maximising the chances of (though not necessarily guaranteeing) a safe landing (Josephsen et al, 2007). It is an accident that occurred whilst bouldering at an activity centre that is the focal point of Maylin, but before discussing the case itself we turn to some remarks about risk and lifestyle sport more generally.…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

Risk and Lifestyle Sports: The Case of Bouldering

Gilchrist

Osborn

2017

Entertainment and Sports Law Journal

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The recent case of Maylin v Dacorum Sports Trust [2017] EWHC 378 (QB) is the latest example of a claim being made for damages suffered whilst participating in bouldering, a form of low-level climbing. Whilst interesting in its own right in terms of how the courts apply legal principles to the area, it also sheds light on approaches to lifestyle sports more generally and the place of risk within play. This Intervention is essentially a case note of Maylin, but viewed, in part, through the lens of recent interdisciplinary work the authors have undertaken into parkour.

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“…In the past 20 years several studies (pro-and retrospectively) were conducted to evaluate the injury and fatality risk of rock [1][2][3][4][5][6][7][8][9][10][11][12][13][14][15][16][17][18] , ice 19,20 and mountain climbing [16][17][18][21][22][23][24][25][26][27][28][29][30] . Injury incidence was reported per 1000 hours of sport-specific performance, expedition days, summit attempts or other.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

The UIAA Medical Commission Injury Classification for Mountaineering and Climbing Sports

Schöffl

Morrison²,

Hefti

et al. 2011

Wilderness & Environmental Medicine

119

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Objective Variations in definitions, scores, and methodologies have created differences in the results and conclusions obtained from studies on mountaineering and climbing sports injuries and illnesses; this has made interstudy comparisons difficult or impossible. To develop a common, simple, and sport-specific scoring system to classify injuries and illnesses in mountaineering and climbing studies; such retrospective scoring would facilitate the analysis and surveillance of their frequencies, severity and fatalities, and outcomes of any treatment. Methods The UIAA (The International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation) makes recommendations, sets policy, and advocates on behalf of the climbing and mountaineering community internationally through its various commissions. Using a nominal group consensus model approach, a working group was formed during the UIAA Medical Commission's meeting in Adršpach – Zdoňov, in the Czech Republic, 2008. This group critically examined climbing and other relevant literature for various methodological approaches in measuring injury incident rates and severity, including data sources, and produced a working document that was later edited and ratified by all members of the UIAA Medical Commission. Results Definitions of injury location, injury classification, and fatality risk are proposed. Case fatality, time-related injury risk, and a standardized metric climbing difficulty scale are also defined. Conclusions The medical commission of the UIAA recommends the use of the described criteria and scores for future research in mountaineering and climbing sports in order to enable robust and comprehensive interstudy comparisons and epidemiological analysis.

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Injuries in Bouldering: A Prospective Study

Abstract: Bouldering outdoors has an increased risk of injury to the fingers. Preventative measures appear largely ineffective in reducing the number of injuries in both cohorts.

Cited by 73 publications

References 23 publications

A Critical Review of the Incidence and Risk Factors for Finger Injuries in Rock Climbing

A Critical Review of the Incidence and Risk Factors for Finger Injuries in Rock Climbing

Risk and Lifestyle Sports: The Case of Bouldering

The UIAA Medical Commission Injury Classification for Mountaineering and Climbing Sports

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