2005
DOI: 10.1142/5740
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Introduction to Nearshore Hydrodynamics

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Cited by 141 publications
(212 citation statements)
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“…The turbulent stresses τ ij are calculated using the k-ε turbulence model in the 'standard' formulation (Launder and Spalding, 1974), while the free surface movements in the vertical direction are calculated according to the kinematic boundary condition (Svendsen, 2006;van Rijn Leo, 2011):…”
Section: The 3d Hydrodynamic Model and The Numerical Simulationsmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…The turbulent stresses τ ij are calculated using the k-ε turbulence model in the 'standard' formulation (Launder and Spalding, 1974), while the free surface movements in the vertical direction are calculated according to the kinematic boundary condition (Svendsen, 2006;van Rijn Leo, 2011):…”
Section: The 3d Hydrodynamic Model and The Numerical Simulationsmentioning
confidence: 99%
“…The variation of this term versus Ursell parameter is plotted in Figure 5. Another interesting result is that the value of SAC is exactly twice times of Bm parameter defined by cnoidal wave theory (23). The value of Bm is calculated for cnoidal waves by …”
Section: New Approach Efficiency Investigationmentioning
confidence: 91%
“…The Ursell parameter is a non-dimensional number which demonstrates the degree of nonlinearity. Most of cnoidal wave parameters are controlled and governed by Ursell parameter (23). Prepared time series resulted from Mike 21 toolbox are analyzed by least square method.…”
Section: Methodsmentioning
confidence: 99%
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“…The input signal was a monochromatic wave of height H, period T and wavelength L. The tests were always carried out within the shallow water limit, i.e. h 0 /L < 1/20 (Svendsen, 2005). Furthermore, the authors decided to test less steep waves to limit their steepening caused by the adoption of the NLSWEs, so that wave breaking was avoided.…”
Section: Monochromatic Wave Testsmentioning
confidence: 99%