Introduction: Weaving Codes, Coding Weaves

McLean, Alex; Harlizius-Klück, Ellen; Jefferies, Janis K.

doi:10.1080/14759756.2017.1298232

Cited by 5 publications

(2 citation statements)

References 3 publications

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“…The pattern was adapted according to the restrictions of the grid, since each position in the grid can only contain one color. The relation between modern computers and Jacquard looms is not new, in fact, Jacquard was the first to transform the binary basis of weaving into a language understandable for non-weavers [45], later on, Ada Lovelace will describe the Analytical Engine as weaver of algebraical patterns. SILKNOW continues with this tradition by creating a Virtual Loom.…”

Section: The Consideration Of Symmetry In Silknow's Virtual Loommentioning

confidence: 99%

Applying Axial Symmetries to Historical Silk Fabrics: SILKNOW’s Virtual Loom

et al. 2020

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Symmetry is part of textile art in patterns and motifs that decorate fabrics, which are made by the interlacement of warp and wefts. Moreover, the 3D representation of fabrics have already been studied by some authors; however, they have not specifically dealt with preserving historical weaving techniques. In this paper, we present the SILKNOW’s Virtual Loom, a tool intended to document, preserve and reproduce silk historical weaving techniques from the 15th to the 19th centuries. We focus on the symmetry function and its contribution to art history, textile conservation, and modern design. We analyzed 2028 records from Garin 1820 datasets—a historical industry that still weaves with these techniques—and we reconstructed some historical designs that presented different types of defects. For those images (including fabrics and drawings) that had a symmetrical axis, we applied the symmetry functionality allowing to reconstruct missing parts. Thanks to these results, we were able to verify the usefulness of the Virtual Loom for conservation, analysis and new interpretative advantages, thanks to symmetry analysis applied to historical fabrics.

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Section: The Consideration Of Symmetry In Silknow's Virtual Loommentioning

confidence: 99%

Applying Axial Symmetries to Historical Silk Fabrics: SILKNOW’s Virtual Loom

et al. 2020

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“…Ada Lovelace used this quote to describe Charles Babbage's Analytical Engine, the first know-machine to tabulate polynomial functions. However, as Ellen Harlizius-Klück describes in [33], Jacquard was not the inventor of algebraic patterns, but the first to make the binary basis of weaving known and understandable for non-weavers. In fact, as we sated previously, weaving had always applied mathematical principles to its creations.…”

Section: Representation Of Historical Weaving Techniquesmentioning

confidence: 99%

Towards the Preservation and Dissemination of Historical Silk Weaving Techniques in the Digital Era

Gaitán

Pagán

León³

et al. 2019

Heritage

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Historical weaving techniques have evolved in time and space giving as result more or less fabrics with different aesthetical characteristics. These techniques were transferred along the main silk production centers, thanks to the European Silk Road and creating a common European Frame on themes and techniques. These had made it complicated to determine whether a fabric corresponds to one century or another. Moreover, in order to understand their creation, it is necessary to determine the number of weaves and interlacements that each textile has, therefore, mathematical models can be extracted from these layers. In this sense, three dimensional (3D) virtual representations of the internal structure of textiles are of interest for a variety of purposes related to fashion, industry, education or other areas. The aim of this paper is to propose a mathematical modelling of historical weaving techniques by means of matrices in order to be easily mapped to a virtual 3D representation. The work focuses on historical silk textiles, ranging from the 15th to the 19th centuries. We also propose a computer vision-based strategy to extract relevant information from digital imagery, by considering different types of images (textiles, technical drawings and macro images). The work here presented has been carried out in the scope of the SILKNOW project, which has received funding from the European Union’s Horizon 2020 research and innovation program under grant agreement No. 769504. The results shown in the paper are preliminary and will be improved in the scope of the project.

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Weaving Codes/Coding Weaves: Penelopean Mêtis and the Weaver-Coder’s Kairos

Cocker

2017

TEXTILE

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Drawing on her experience as 'critical interlocutor' within the research project Weaving Codes / Coding Weaves, in this article Emma Cocker reflects on the human qualities of attention, cognitive agility and tactical intelligence activated within live coding and ancient weaving with reference to the Ancient Greek concepts of technē, kairos and mêtis. The article explores how the specificity of 'thinking-in-action' cultivated within improvisatory live coding relates to the embodied 'thought-in-motion' activated whilst working on the loom. Echoing the wider concerns of Weaving Codes / Coding Weaves, an attempt is made to redefine the relation between weave and code by dislodging the dominant utilitarian histories that connect computer and the loom, instead placing emphasis on the potentially resistant and subversive forms of live thinking-and-knowing cultivated within live coding and ancient weaving. Cocker addresses the Penelopean poetics of both practices, proposing how the combination of kairotic timing and timeliness with the mêtic act of 'doing-undoing-redoing' therein offers a subversive alternative to-even critique of-certain utilitarian technological developments (within both coding and weaving) which in privileging efficiency and optimization can delimit creative possibilities, reducing the potential of human intervention and invention in the seizing of opportunity, accident, chance and contingency.

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Introduction: Weaving Codes, Coding Weaves

Cited by 5 publications

References 3 publications

Applying Axial Symmetries to Historical Silk Fabrics: SILKNOW’s Virtual Loom

Applying Axial Symmetries to Historical Silk Fabrics: SILKNOW’s Virtual Loom

Towards the Preservation and Dissemination of Historical Silk Weaving Techniques in the Digital Era

Weaving Codes/Coding Weaves: Penelopean Mêtis and the Weaver-Coder’s Kairos

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