Isolated finger flexor vs. exhaustive whole-body climbing tests? How to assess endurance in sport climbers?

Baláš, Jiří; Gajdošík, Ján; Giles, David; Fryer, Simon M; Krupková, Dominika; Brtník, Tomáš; Feldmann, Andri

doi:10.1007/s00421-021-04595-7

Cited by 19 publications

(50 citation statements)

References 39 publications

(77 reference statements)

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“…•kg −1 and lowered muscle oxygen saturation of the FDP by 7% (Baláš et al, 2021). In this study, TTE decreased with steeper wall angle and the association between TTE and wall angle followed a hyperbolic function (Figure 2) same to the power or speed and duration relationship (Jones et al, 2019).…”

Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 54%

“… Noé et al (2001) reported that an increase of 10° (−10° from vertical) induced ∼47% increase in mean vertical force on handholds and, therefore, more intense finger flexor contractions. Furthermore, an increase of wall angle by 15° from vertical elevated heart rate by an average of ∼24 beats per min, oxygen uptake by ∼9 mL⋅min –1 ⋅kg –1 and lowered muscle oxygen saturation of the FDP by 7% ( Baláš et al, 2021 ). In this study, TTE decreased with steeper wall angle and the association between TTE and wall angle followed a hyperbolic function ( Figure 2 ) same to the power or speed and duration relationship ( Jones et al, 2019 ).…”

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…The route was technically simple with positively oriented and slightly crimped holds (2-3 cm size depth which enabled both the open and half-crimp grip positions) and was graded 8 on IRCRA grading scale at vertical angle (0 • ) by a professional routesetter. During all ascents, a speed of 9 m•min −1 was applied to minimize the opportunity for static resting positions during the climbs (Baláš et al, 2021). The incremental test started at +6 • (positive angle), and after each minute, the belt was stopped for 10 s to allow climbers to dry their hands with chalk, following which the angle was decreased by −3 • to become progressively vertical (0 • ) and then negative (overhanging), therefore requiring progressively greater finger flexor and upper-body strength involvement.…”

Section: Climbing Testsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Endurance training in climbing requires systemic and localized adaptations ( Thompson et al, 2014 ; Fryer et al, 2018 ), and ensuring appropriate intensity of exercise, particularly for the finger flexors, is challenging. Indeed, it has been shown that intensity control during climbing using measures typical from other sports, such as gas exchange thresholds, heart rate, and blood lactate, are not effective ( Schöffl et al, 2006 ; Limonta et al, 2018 ; Baláš et al, 2021 ).…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Moreover, with an increased angle, more pronounced finger flexor contractions stimulate mitochondrial respiration and higher intramuscular pressure restricts capillary blood flow and, thus, muscle oxygen delivery ( Fryer et al, 2013 ; Gajdošík et al, 2021 ). Recently, muscle oxygenation breakpoints (MOBs) have been measured locally using near infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) during an incremental climbing task ( Baláš et al, 2021 ). These MOBs were suggested to represent an intensity around localized CP; however, they have not been associated with any systemic metabolic threshold indicators, and as such validation of such a MOB is needed.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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The Estimation of Critical Angle in Climbing as a Measure of Maximal Metabolic Steady State

Baláš

Gajdošík

Giles³

et al. 2022

Front. Physiol.

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Purpose: Sport climbing is a technical, self-paced sport, and the workload is highly variable and mainly localized to the forearm flexors. It has not proved effective to control intensity using measures typical of other sports, such as gas exchange thresholds, heart rate, or blood lactate. Therefore, the purposes of the study were to (1) determine the possibility of applying the mathematical model of critical power to the estimation of a critical angle (CA) as a measure of maximal metabolic steady state in climbing and (2) to compare this intensity with the muscle oxygenation breakpoint (MOB) determined during an exhaustive climbing task.Materials and Methods: Twenty-seven sport climbers undertook three to five exhaustive ascents on a motorized treadwall at differing angles to estimate CA, and one exhaustive climbing test with a progressive increase in angle to determine MOB, assessed using near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS).Results: Model fit for estimated CA was very high (R2 = 0.99; SEE = 1.1°). The mean peak angle during incremental test was −17 ± 5°, and CA from exhaustive trials was found at −2.5 ± 3.8°. Nine climbers performing the ascent 2° under CA were able to sustain the task for 20 min with perceived exertion at 12.1 ± 1.9 (RPE). However, climbing 2° above CA led to task failure after 15.9 ± 3.0 min with RPE = 16.4 ± 1.9. When MOB was plotted against estimated CA, good agreement was stated (ICC = 0.80, SEM = 1.5°).Conclusion: Climbers, coaches, and researchers may use a predefined route with three to five different wall angles to estimate CA as an analog of critical power to determine a maximal metabolic steady state in climbing. Moreover, a climbing test with progressive increases in wall angle using MOB also appears to provide a valid estimate of CA.

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Section: Discussionsupporting

confidence: 54%

Section: Discussionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Climbing Testsmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

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The Estimation of Critical Angle in Climbing as a Measure of Maximal Metabolic Steady State

Baláš

Gajdošík

Giles³

et al. 2022

Front. Physiol.

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Measuring critical force in sport climbers: a validation study of the 4 min all-out test on finger flexors

Baláš,

Gajdošík,

Javorský

et al. 2024

Eur J Appl Physiol

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Purpose The critical force (CF) concept, differentiating steady and non-steady state conditions, extends the critical power paradigm for sport climbing. This study aimed to validate CF for finger flexors derived from the 4 min all-out test as a boundary for the highest sustainable work intensity in sport climbers. Methods Twelve participants underwent multiple laboratory visits. Initially, they performed the 4 min intermittent contraction all-out test for CF determination. Subsequent verification visits involved finger-flexor contractions at various intensities, including CF, CF −2 kg, CF −4 kg, and CF −6 kg, lasting for 720 s or until failure, while monitoring muscle-oxygen dynamics of forearm muscles. Results CF, determined from the mean force of last three contractions, was measured at 20.1 ± 5.7 kg, while the end-force at 16.8 ± 5.2 kg. In the verification trials, the mean time to failure at CF was 440 ± 140 s, with only one participant completing the 720 s task. When the load was continuously lowered (−2 kg, −4 kg, and −6 kg), a greater number of participants (38%, 69%, and 92%, respectively) successfully completed the 720 s task. Changes of muscle-oxygen dynamics showed a high variability and could not clearly distinguish between exhaustive and non-exhaustive trials. Conclusions CF, based on the mean force of the last three contractions, failed to reliably predict the highest sustainable work rate. In contrast, determining CF as the end-force of the last three contractions exhibited a stronger link to sustainable work. Caution is advised in interpreting forearm muscle-oxygen dynamics, lacking sensitivity for nuanced metabolic responses during climbing-related tasks.

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Predictive value of forearm muscle oxygenation parameters for climbing-specific finger endurance and competitive climbing performance

2023

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Purpose Near-infrared spectroscopy (NIRS) is a valid and reliable method to assess forearm muscle oxygenation in sport climbing, focusing on evaluating single parameters. The study assessed the predictive value of various NIRS parameters in climbing-specific settings, during intermittent finger endurance testing and in a simulated climbing competition. Methods 52 recreational climbers (28.5 ± 6.3 y) performed an intermittent finger endurance test and 10 competitive climbers (20.2 ± 6.3 y) participated in a simulated lead climbing competition. Continuous-wave NIRS were used to assess oxygenation and blood volume changes. Results NIRS parameters predicted 26.4% of the variance in the intermittent test, with mean minima and maxima of O2Hb and mean maxima of TSI% of the single repetitions being the predictors. No significant differences existed between the last valid and the first nonvalid repetition on the combined dependent variable. For the simulated competition, a statistically significant difference between the 20 s intervals on the combined dependent variables was found with posthoc testing showing significant univariate within-subjects effects for HHb, tHb & TSI, but not for O2Hb. Conclusion The results indicate that for the intermittent test, high re- and deoxygenation abilities, and for the climbing competition, the accumulation of HHb concentration levels have the highest predictability.

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Isolated finger flexor vs. exhaustive whole-body climbing tests? How to assess endurance in sport climbers?

Cited by 19 publications

References 39 publications

The Estimation of Critical Angle in Climbing as a Measure of Maximal Metabolic Steady State

The Estimation of Critical Angle in Climbing as a Measure of Maximal Metabolic Steady State

Measuring critical force in sport climbers: a validation study of the 4 min all-out test on finger flexors

Predictive value of forearm muscle oxygenation parameters for climbing-specific finger endurance and competitive climbing performance

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