“…Labour rights and agency in GVCs have been a growing focus of research. However, scholars have adopted different approaches to labour, ranging from the issue of labour control regimes (Smith et al, 2018) and the labour process (Taylor et al, 2013), to worker agency and resistance (Coe & Jordhus-Lier, 2011;Selwyn, 2012), to labour standards linked to social upgrading (Barrientos et al, 2011). Moreover, and intersecting with aspects of private governance, the creation and enforcement of labour codes by NGOs such as Clean Clothes Campaign as well as multi-stakeholder initiatives, such as the Ethical Trading Initiative or the International Labour Organisation's (ILO) Better Work Programme, bring together government, trade unions, suppliers and buyers (Bair, 2017).…”