Laboratory recreation of the Draupner wave and the role of breaking in crossing seas

McAllister, Mark L.; Draycott, Samuel; Adcock, Thomas A. A.; Taylor, Paul H.; Bremer, Ton S. van den

doi:10.1017/jfm.2018.886

Cited by 88 publications

(55 citation statements)

References 57 publications

(86 reference statements)

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“…Of interest in this context is a one-dimensional wave tank experiment that was able to use deterministic linear superposition of component waves to reproduce a scale model of the single-position wave train of the Draupner wave [166]. Some progress has also been made in wave tanks to understand the role of linear and nonlinear focussing in directional seas [167], including a recent experiment recreating the Draupner wave from multi-directional superposition [168] as shown in Fig. 5d.…”

Section: Wave Tank Experimentsmentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Draupner wave (multidirectional) in a wave tank (168) with an extended tail including rogue wave (RW) events exceedingthe significant wave height (H RW [136], Springer Nature Limited. Panel b is adapted from (i) Ref.…”

mentioning

confidence: 99%

“…Panel d is adapted from Ref. [168], APS. The table also lists typical parameters associated with optical and hydrodynamic rogue waves.…”

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confidence: 99%

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Rogue waves and analogies in optics and oceanography

et al. 2019

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We review the study of rogue waves and related instabilities in optical and oceanic environments, with particular focus on recent experimental developments. In optics, we emphasize results arising from the use of real-time measurement techniques, whilst in oceanography we consider insights obtained from analysis of real-world ocean wave data and controlled experiments in wave tanks. Although significant progress in understanding rogue waves has been made based on an analogy between wave dynamics in optics and hydrodynamics, these comparisons have predominantly focused on one-dimensional nonlinear propagation scenarios. As a result, there remains significant debate about the dominant physical mechanisms driving the generation of ocean rogue waves in the complex environment of the open sea. Here, we review stateof-the-art of rogue wave studies in optics and hydrodynamics, aiming to clearly identify similarities and differences between the results obtained in the two fields. In hydrodynamics, we take care to review results that support both nonlinear and linear interpretations of ocean rogue wave formation, and in optics, we also summarise results from an emerging area of research applying the measurement techniques developed for the study of rogue waves to dissipative soliton systems. We conclude with a discussion of important future research directions. the underlying carrier wave is considered sinusoidal at frequency ω whereas in hydrodynamics, the NLSE envelope modulates the Stokes wave which (to second-order) contains contributions at both ω and the second harmonic 2ω [31]. In addition, even though the terminology "optical wave breaking" is used in an NLSE context to describe the steepening of an optical envelope from nonlinear focussing [32], optical carrier waves themselves do not "break" or plunge as they do in hydrodynamics [33,34]. There are also important differences concerning measurements. Specifically, experiments in optical fibres generally measure only the time-domain envelope intensity, and information about carrier oscillations is not recorded. In contrast, measurements in hydrodynamics directly record the individual carrier wave amplitudes (although envelope information can be reconstructed straightforwardly [35]). Particular care must therefore be taken when comparing statistics between optics and hydrodynamics, because statistics in fibre optics experiments are determined

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Section: Wave Tank Experimentsmentioning

confidence: 99%

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Rogue waves and analogies in optics and oceanography

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“…2005) including the well-known Draupner wave (Onorato, Osborne & Serio 2006; Mcallister et al. 2019). In directionally spread crossing seas much of the recent research work on wave statistical development and rogue waves is based on numerical studies (e.g.…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

On kurtosis and extreme waves in crossing directional seas: a laboratory experiment

2019

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We examine the statistical properties of extreme and rogue wave activity in crossing directional seas, to constrain the probabilistic distributions of wave heights and wave crests in complex sea states; such crossing seas alter the statistical structure of surface waves and are known to have been involved in several marine accidents. Further, we examine the relationship between the kurtosis as an indicator of non-linearity in the spectrum and the directionality and crossing angles of the sea state components. Experimental tests of two-component directionally spread irregular waves with varying frequency, directional spreading and component crossing angles were carried out at the Ocean Basin Laboratory in Trondheim, Norway. The results from the experiments show that wave heights are well described by a first-order (linear) statistical distribution, while for the wave crest heights several cases exceed a second-order distribution. The number of rogue waves is relatively low overall, which agrees with previous findings in directionally spread seas. The kurtosis and wave and crest height exceedance probabilities were more affected by varying the directional spreading of the components than by varying the crossing angles between components; reducing the component directional spreading increases the kurtosis and increases the exceedance probabilities. The kurtosis can be estimated quite well for twocomponent seas from the directional spreading by an empirical relationship based on the two-dimensional Benjamin-Feir index when the effects of bound modes are included. This result may allow forecast of the probability of extreme waves from the directional spreading in complex sea states.

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“…Set-up has been observed in field data [43][44][45] and recently in detailed laboratory experiments [46]. For the Draupner wave, recorded in the North Sea on the 1st of January 1995 [47], the observation of set-up can be seen as evidence for crossing [43,48,49]. In fact, linear dispersive focusing enhanced by bound-wave nonlinearity but without MI may be sufficient to explain observations such as the Draupner wave [50,51].…”

Section: Introductionmentioning

confidence: 99%

Experimental Observation of Modulational Instability in Crossing Surface Gravity Wavetrains

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McAllister

Borthwick

et al. 2019

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The coupled nonlinear Schrödinger equation (CNLSE) is a wave envelope evolution equation applicable to two crossing, narrow-banded wave systems. Modulational instability (MI), a feature of the nonlinear Schrödinger wave equation, is characterized (to first order) by an exponential growth of sideband components and the formation of distinct wave pulses, often containing extreme waves. Linear stability analysis of the CNLSE shows the effect of crossing angle, θ , on MI, and reveals instabilities between 0 ∘ < θ < 35 ∘ , 46 ∘ < θ < 143 ∘ , and 145 ∘ < θ < 180 ∘ . Herein, the modulational stability of crossing wavetrains seeded with symmetrical sidebands is determined experimentally from tests in a circular wave basin. Experiments were carried out at 12 crossing angles between 0 ∘ ≤ θ ≤ 88 ∘ , and strong unidirectional sideband growth was observed. This growth reduced significantly at angles beyond θ ≈ 20 ∘ , reaching complete stability at θ = 30–40 ∘ . We find satisfactory agreement between numerical predictions (using a time-marching CNLSE solver) and experimental measurements for all crossing angles.

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Laboratory recreation of the Draupner wave and the role of breaking in crossing seas

Cited by 88 publications

References 57 publications

Rogue waves and analogies in optics and oceanography

Rogue waves and analogies in optics and oceanography

On kurtosis and extreme waves in crossing directional seas: a laboratory experiment

Experimental Observation of Modulational Instability in Crossing Surface Gravity Wavetrains

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